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Sweet! Would love to see the final image! 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Jonathan Ziegler
November 29, 2012 at 6:35 pm in reply to: OT – Anyone use a Samsung Galaxy Note 2 for displaying work?Don’t worry too much about it. Colors on most of these consumer devices are off. I’d grab a photoshop color chart, set it up with no color profile in Photoshop (just plain RGB). Open on your Galaxy Note 2 and take a screen shot. Open that file in Photoshop and see if the colors vary or come up with a profile (probably not). If it does, steal that profile and apply to your images. If not, note which colors are over/under saturated, too light/dark, which colors shift, etc. Basically, you need to build your own color profile.
The really easy way is to make changes to the jpegs in Camera Raw (like tint, saturation, white balance, etc.) and save that “development setting” and apply to anything you’re putting on your phone or other device. You have to eyeball it, though.
Hope this helps. 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Even though the file is only 500MB, Photoshop loads the entire image in RAM as an uncompressed file (as if it were a completely uncompressed file). Has to do with how PS manages memory. So the file takes up 200MB for what you can see on your screen and 7GB in RAM. Best bet is to raise the amount of RAM and scratch disk space photoshop requires OR, if you are okay with it, lower your number of undos (default is 20, I think). Crop should be fairly simple, but it needs to retain the entire image (pre-crop) in your undo history which is what’s taking up so much space, I’m sure. Also, try saving at each step so you don’t need to store as much in one go.
I used to run into this all the time when I was dealing with huge layered images for catalogs and such. Lemme know if this helps.
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Before you click on save selection to channel, double-click the “Edit in quick mask mode” button on the tools palette – it should pop up with the Quick Mask Options window. If you have “Color Indicates:” set to “Masked Areas” then the selected stuff will become WHITE and the unselected stuff BLACK. You guessed it, if you switch to “Selected Areas” the opposite happens. Hope this helps. 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Depends on how your action is set up. I have one that puts it in the lower-left corner and nudges it a bit from the bottom and left side. Centering is a problem because the action only remembers the number of pixels from the top and left corners. If the images are different sizes, it will always put them in the wrong place. To fix it, do the following:
record a new action:
open your image, copy and paste your watermark, make your blending changes, then, in the layers palette, select the background layer and the watermark, now, with the Move Tool (V) selected, use the Align Right, Left, or Center and then Align Top, Bottom, or Center, etc. depending on where you want it all to be (dead center is Center/Center). This way, the watermark starts in the same position each time relative to the image, regardless of image size, then select the water mark and nudge the watermark away from the edge(s) as needed. Remember to stop recording the action, too.If this isn’t working or you need something else done, email back. 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Can you tell us the exact steps you are using?
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
According to my Photoshop, color1.jpg uses the Adobe RGB 1998 color space, but color2 doesn’t have a color space assigned. I went to Edit >> Assign Profile and chose Adobe 1998. Now they both match. Color space makes a huge difference in the final appearance – I generally use Adobe 1998 where appropriate as I find sRGB to be pretty poor.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
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My 2 cents:
I’d stick with the mic you have and disable the automatic gain control AND have individual gain control on your camera with Magic Lantern (https://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified) – it’s a fast install and you can even make adjustments to the camera’s bitrate so you can get longer than 12 minutes (but still less than 30 minutes). I’ve been using ML for about 2 years now on and off. It’s not always appropriate and some directors/producers/DPs don’t like it, but the new version 2.3 is super stable. I personally use the T2i (550D) with ML almost exclusively now since you get so many more features you would normally expect on a pro video camera (not a DSLR).
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Yep, use clipping layers. Create your filter layer, then hold the mouse between the original layer and the new layer, hold down Option (Control or Alt on the PC, I don’t remember) and the cursor will turn into a sort of pair of circles, a black one on a grey one. Click between the 2 layers and the top one is clipped by the one below. This will apply the adjustments only to the visible part of the layer. Anything below won’t feel the effects.
You can also do this when creating your adjustment layers by clicking on “Use Previous Layer to Create Clipping Mask” just before creating the layer. You can stack several layers, each clipped to the original layer.
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293