Jessica Mantheiy
Forum Replies Created
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When you are trying to build, does the Errorr message window generate any type of warning for you?
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
First, how long is your program?
Send your sequence to Compressor. Select one of the DVD Presets that closely matches the time of your program. Also choose the “Best Quality” preset. From there, you export. However, until we know how long your program is, I can’t tell you of you need to adjust your data rate for the .m2v file.
Open up DVD Studio Pro once your streams have been made. Import the .ac3 and .m2v into your project. Create a new Timeline and then, drag the files you just imported into the Timeline. I would assume that your DVD is a straight-play. So, in your Inspector window, make sure you adjust your Title, Menu, and First Play options to the necessary timeline that houses your program. Now, click on the Timeline and change your End Jump (if you need it to loop, loop to the same timeline again. If you need it to just stop, don’t do anything). And last, click outside of the timeline and go to Inspector and change the name of our disc.
That’s it. If you need help adjusting the bitrate, let everyone know.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
Just a warning: converting from PAL to NTSC via software wil cause interlacing because you’re going to adding frames. The best route is a hardware conversion.
But, if you must do it in Compressor, here is how you do
ItTake your PAL sequence and send it to Compressor, from there, select the preset you wish to export. Go into the “Encoder” tab and change the frame rate under the video part to whatever frame rate you need (29.97 or 23.98) From here, Go into the “Frame Controls” and turn it on. Go to “Retiming Control” and change the Rate Conversion. Each option will add more time to your export, but will try to blend the frames together as much as possible. Also, you may want to do the same thing under the “Deinterlace” part. If you need to make it 23.98, then you need to change your Deinterlace to “Reverse Telecine.”
That’s the best way to do it. Prepare for a VERY long export. Do a small sample first before you export your entire program. Again, if you have access to a hardware standars converter, you will have MUCH better results than doing a software conversion.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
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Instead of having DVDSP make multiple copies, take your DVD Master, open up Disk Utility, create an image of the DVD, and burn it that way.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
What type of compression if your sequence set at? Also, after you close out of Premiere, are you deleting your render files?
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
What frame rate did you shoot at? And what type of .mov did iMovie make you?
And, correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the Mac version of Premiere can edit .mts easily. You may also want to check your sequence settings in Premiere. Sometimes the preset don’t always work and making a ” New Sequence from Clip” option may be a better choice.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
Honestly, I would set up your sequence as HD (just edit natively) and then set your Kona settings to the output you need. Let he Kona do the down conversion. It will optimize the resolution the best it can (for SD, anyway). If you make your own SD file, you run the risk of, unintentionally, creating low data rates. Plus, Compressor is not the greatest. It has it’s perks, but let the Kona card do the work for you.
Also, are you converting 24fps to 29.97fps? If so, GOOD LUCK.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
It doesn’t look like you can fix it. It sounds like something happened either during your Export or when Toast was trying to read it. You will most likely have to re-export.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com -
I have been having the exact issue recently, but it’s been on CS3. Are you on Mac or PC? I have had a colleague inform me that Mac versions of the software tend to do this.
Do you have your buttons as sub-pictures? And do you have your button layers as (=1) or (=3)? If you have it at (=1), try switching it to (=3) and see if that helps. Also, making you buttons visible (going into Photoshop and hitting the “eye” on the layer) and then making the button a sub-picture in Encore might do the trick too.
But you are not alone, even on older versions of the software I have seen this.
Jessica Muth
jmuth01@gmail.com