Jeff Carpenter
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Unfortunately, a lot of this is trial and error. The final file size depends a LOT on what is in your video…how much motion there is, and how complicated the images are.
That being said, expect to be in the 100-250 MB range, I would think. I know that’s a pretty wide guess, but that’s my point. It’s hard to judge, even for the computer. Give one a try and see what you get. I’d put the “quality” slider in the video settings at about the 70% mark and set the audio to AAC, 44.1, VBR, and near the 128 range. Raise that a little higher if the audio is important, like it’s got music or something.
Start there and see what it looks like. You may be able to lower the quality but that depends on if you like what you see.
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Do you have the ability to make sure that all of these laptops have Quick Time 7 on them? (Not Pro, just regular QT7.)
If you can make sure of that, start playing around with the H.264 setting. That will be best, but only if you can control those laptops. If they have QT 6 or 7 and you can’t control that then go with the H.263 setting. If you’re talking Windows Media Player only we’ll have to look at other options.
In any case, though, I’d be looking at making something that’s 480 x 360 in frame size and maintain the same frame rate as the original footage. Try a test and see what file size you get. Then adjust your settings (both audio and video) from there if it needs to be smaller.
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There is a tool in the toolbar for this. You have to click and hold the mouse on certain tools and other options will pop up.
You should read the section of the manual about the tools and the toolbar. They’re all very useful and the time it takes to learn them will save you a lot more time in the future.
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The one with DVI connection, right? I believe that they have the exact same LDC panel inside as the Apple monitors.
Even if I’m wrong about that I know people around here have said they like theirs very much whenever someone asks about them.
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Are you using the most recent iTunes? That article is from a few weeks back when iTunes was causing this problem. It’s a workaround, yes, but since the new version of iTunes came out I haven’t had any problems. Try and update to the newest version and see if that solves it.
If it doesn’t, then go back to that article.
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Try not to get too excited, but there IS something called 4K as well. Other than that, Erik seems to know more about this than I do so you should refer to his post for everything else.
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The workaround is to erase the other programs after they’ve installed. (And any folders you can spotlight that have their names on them.) That shouldn’t hurt anything and Final Cut should still work just fine.
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Try plugging the mouse into every available USB port on the computer. See if any of them work. After that, see if you can borrow another mouse to try.
This should be working, it sounds like you have either a bad mouse or a bad USB port. If you’re lucky, there’s just some temporary problem with that one USB port and it will go back to normal after your OS install is finished.
If all of that fails, try using the “Tab” and “Return” keys and see if that’s enough to get you through the process. I don’t know if it will be, but that’s your best bet to try.
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Do you have some kind of external drive where you can copy all of your data? Do you have an entire day to waste?
What I would do is to copy all of my data to an external drive AND copy the “(Main Drive)/Library” folder and the “(Main Drive)/Users/(Your Name)/Library” folders to the external drive.
Then I would put in the Panther CD and restart holding the C key. Once up, find the disc utility and erase the entire hard drive. Then partition it again if that’s what you want. Then install Panther.
Once you’re up, run the system update and download any updates from Apple it can find. Restart and check it again. Once those are all done, re-install your applications from their original CDs.
Then bring back your data from the external drive. Start with the random files you just copied there. Then you can decide which items in the library drives you want to pick through. Maybe you want to copy your Address Book info. Or maybe just iCal or Safari bookmarks. You should take just what you want out of there and leave everything else. KEEP that drive for 2 or 3 weeks because you might think of something you’ve forgotten a few days from now.
THAT will give you a nice clean, stable, healthy system. It takes time, though. If you don’t have the time then just back up files for safety reasons, run the disc, and do an “upgrade.” You should be fine and you won’t need your backup files at all. And yes, the partition should remain in that case. This is the “fast and easy” method, the other way is the “slower and harder” method. As with anything, slower and harder is better, but, well, it’s slower and harder. Chances are you’ll be fine with a simple upgrade. You can decide which is the better choice for you.
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I’ve had no problems using Photoshop CS1 on my Intel iMac so I’m sure the upcoming powermacs will have even less trouble than that.
Yeah, yeah, there’s all sorts of tests out there showing that it runs slower than the future version will but it’s not like I’m rendering the “Cloud Effect” every day. For what I use Photoshop for it runs just FINE.
And for the record, a LOT of the updates I’ve gotten to make programs Universal programs have either been free, or pretty darned close to it ($50 for all Final Cut Pro suite programs). I don’t see many companies getting rich from it. Photoshop is different because of the way it was written. Some programs have to be altered for this…Adobe has to RE-write Photoshop from scratch. So they’ just starting fresh with the next version. It makes the most sense for them. I’m sure it will be super-fast at that point but I probably won’t even upgrade the instant it comes out. Seriously, I’ve been just fine with the old one so far.