Clint Fleckenstein
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Word of advice: tighten all those little screws NOW. Take ’em out and put blue Loctite on them so they don’t continue to work their way loose. Otherwise you’ll end up with a dangly LCD like we did. The part took over a month to arrive as it was on backorder. The replacement screws had thread locker on them, so I suspect Sony has seen a lot of this.
Cf
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Part number is 147957013 or 147957014, according to the Sony site. Model number is RM-F300. It says $53.95, that’s surprisingly cheap. That stupid weak bezel on my LCD cost $75.
Sony parts URL: https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/sony-parts.aspx
Cf
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We don’t get the Northern Lights as frequently here in North Dakota during a solar minimum like this. Therefore my attempts have been pretty weak. Still photos turn out great tho.
Clint
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By the way, I spent way too long shooting in a jetway tonight at -16F wearing a Steadicam vest rig and no jacket. Camera worked great, even though it was too cold for the flourescent lights in the jetway to work completely. I had to tell the talent to hold their breath while they walked past me because it’s not supposed to be a winter shot!
Cf
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If you can swing more money, I think you’ll have much better luck with the Sachtler FSB-6 head. That’s what we got and I want to get a second one. This after reading a LOT of reviews everywhere I could find them. This is the smoothest tripod head you’ll find anywhere close to this price range, for sure. Very important factor to consider if you’re going to be doing any pan/tilt work to follow the shred.
We put the FSB-6 on a carbon Sachtler tripod (got the two as a pair on B&H) and I’ve used it in some VERY cold temps, but if you’re trying to save money and are worried about the durability in the cold, I’m sure you can find some matching aluminum legs.
Cf
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Make sure that FCP is rendering the whole sequence then, since some clips don’t match your sequence codec. Just hitting Apple-R doesn’t do that unless you change your application settings. Under Sequence>Render All I believe you can force that. Otherwise I think it’s trying to do it on the fly.
Cf
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I recommend you bring me and my snowboard, Mavis.
As far as a housing, you could maybe just get away with bagging the camera with a rain sleeve of some sort. With only a couple of days, you might just want to pack a garbage bag or something and improvise if needed.
I don’t know enough to give advice on the polarizer other than that I think they’re quite directional (I use CP filters on my still camera frequently). That could present problems unless you can change the sun’s position relative to the earth. Also, on wide shots I’ve experienced shifts in the sky.
Cf
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That’s not a bad idea to run DC power until you have to go untethered. In my case that hasn’t been an easy option.
North Dakota, being at the geographic center of North America, is prone to lots of wild swings. I’ve flown into Vegas for shoots and found that it was ONLY 105 degrees, cooler than at home! 🙂 I’ve always lived in the snow and/or the mountains, so I kinda dig the whole blizzard thing. Until last night, when my snowblower froze up. I always tell new reporters at the TV stations here, “you know it’s North Dakota cold when you go outside and your coat breaks.”
Cf
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I’ve shot subzero (hey, I’m in North Dakota) and had no problems, other than my headphone cord getting as stiff as a coat hanger. I literally propped them up against the tripod. The LCD performed just fine, I didn’t have any mechanical hangups with the lens, and battery life didn’t appear to suffer. I’ve only been out as long as an hour, but that’s plenty at those temps.
Cf
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We had the same problem with the flip-out LCD. The screws don’t come with any thread locker from the factory, but I noticed that the replacement screws come with red loctite applied.
Cf