Chris Poisson
Forum Replies Created
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The best thing for you to do is go to an Apple store, where you can try any and all combinations of software and hardware, because your needs and how comfortable you are with a given setup are what’s important, not the myriad of others’ personal preferences you’ll get here.
Have a wonderful day.
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Emma,
His problem with judder has to do with converting from 60i to 24p, that’s a big step and won’t work well if there’s a lot of motion, pans etc. going on. Which is why in an earlier post I explained why I prefer the 30p setting. You still get a nice progressive film look, but it’s a lot smoother. I never use 24p conversion for anything. If I want 24p that’s what I’d shoot.
Have a wonderful day.
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I’d bet the farm your alpha is premultiplied. When you have a straight alpha usually they look terrible in QT and great in FC.
Have a wonderful day.
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Hey Emma,
Didn’t know if you were in PAL or NTSC land, it would help if you filled out your profile a bit.
The filters are a bit daunting to look at, but if you take 5 minutes to go through one, it becomes pretty easy. Most of the settings you leave at default, but scroll down to the saturation and gamma, black point, white point section, and this is where you’ll change things.
All of them have the same controls, there are check boxes to turn entire sections on and off. You’ll get the hang of it.
Have a wonderful day.
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Emma, those filters ar only around a hundred bucks, and worth every penny. You will notice they have a 24p and a 30 p mode up at the top. i work in NTSC and prefer the 30p look, but that’s just me.
Yes, normally you would apply whichever look you go with (there are about 15 or so presets which you can tweak)to each clip separately unless all your shots are close to the same. Normally I will do two or three settings and then copy those to the clips they work with.
Have a wonderful day.
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Emma,
To answer your question, the best way to AE short of Automatic Duck would be to export a self-contained movie at your sequence settings, a QuickTime export, not QuickTime Conversion.
But, for basic color correcting and film looks, FCP is more than capable. Then you have Color for more advanced work.
I’d take a look at the Nattress Film Effects, they do great film looks and you can adjust colors and gamma in them quite well. Often, they are the only filters I use.
Have a wonderful day.
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Mort,
The TBC I have is an AVT 8701. I think I got it at Markertek and it was less than a hundred bucks as I recall. It works great, I routed the VHS through it into my DSR 11 and captured using non controllable device. At least that’s what I remember but it’s been a while.
Have a wonderful day.
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Mort,
A few years back I bought a little time base corrector, and fed VHS directly into FCP. I am not home right now so I can’t tell you the brand, but I can check tonight.
Have a wonderful day.
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You can uprez the footage in a number of ways. The Kona 3 is supposed to be very good at this, not having one I use Compressor’s advanced format conversion, but it takes a long time. Also, you must do the math on image size from 4×3 material to make it big enough to fit 1080, without distorting the footage.
Have a wonderful day.
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John,
What you want is easy ease, which FCP has, but it is woeful to use, really, really iffy and unreliable. You control click the keyframes in the canvas and set them to ease. But it really sucks.
One way around the jarring is to put transitions between the shots.
There is a plugin called PanZoomPro from lyric.com which has great ease in and out, but, it is a bit of a render hog, at least it was last time I tried it.
The other way with photos is Fotomagico, highly recommended by quite a few folks here, including yours truly.
Have a wonderful day.