Bret Williams
Forum Replies Created
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Yeah, but for whatever reason it’s much faster.
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I’m fairly confused by all the details there, but it appears that you think the DSR-11’s TC and the TC in your sequence should be the same when you print to tape. They are completely unrelated. There is not sync between the two and it’s not a frame accurrate process. You press record on the deck, and FCP starts the playback. You can have FCP start the deck recording, but it still doesn’t make any sort of accurrate edit.
To do that, you’ll need to black the beginning of a tape, use an RS-422 compatible deck, and use assemble edit in edit to tape.
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And don’t forget QT Pro will do it on it’s own too.
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Unfortunately we’ve seen all the PVMs do this after a number of years. Ones from 97/98 started a few years ago. It didn’t seem to make a difference whether they were on 24hrs a day or turned on once a week. I think it has to do with a capicitor or something leakng or going bad. On the positive, my PVM-20M4U is 10 years old. It started with the Red Green and Blue lines on a diagonal at the top a few years ago. It hasn’t really gotten any worse. Otherwise the monitor still performs very well. How old is your PVM?
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Last time I did an OMF they got all the crossfades, but the audio keyframing was gone. Is that normal?
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OMF the audio and send them a quicktime. You can do it all by web, email, or ftp. They should be able to sync the qt to the omf in some way. A tone/flashframe etc. When they’re done they send you an aiff.
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Thank you. Nest it. To open it in the viewer (if needed) option + double click it. If you want to add a filter to it, drag a filter to it in the timeline just like any other clip. If you want to add a transition to it, it needs to have some extra media just like any other clip. It’s best to do this before nesting, but there’s no reason a ripple couldn’t be applied to the end. When you drag a transition look at the highlight it’s creating before you drop it. You can center it on the cut (won’t work without extra handles on both nest and incoming clip) or start it on the cut by dragging it a little to the right (won’t work without handles either) or drop it a little left where it’ll end on the cut, which will require extra media from the incoming clip be available.
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Final Cut is NOT AE. AE doesn’t CREATE media. The project name in AE is an arbitrary pointless name. In FCP the project name is sacred and should not be messed with. Unless you really want to wreak havoc on your capture scratch folder and undoubtedly the Media Manager.
You’re working in a video editing program. There is no need for for saving incremental versions. Nor is there in AE for that matter. Your FCP project has the ability to create unlimited versions of sequences. You also have a robust file system within the project to organize versions.
A slightly off topic note: the newest version of FCP finally takes the project file name into consideration with autosave files. If you open an autosave file, even with it’s extended project name, FCP will actually open it as the ORIGINAL project name.
If you want to do incremental backups, create a folder at the same level as your project. (I personally have a project folder in which I keep the project and all livetype, photoshop, stills, etc. along with the project.) Call this new folder project backup or something. Whenever you want to create a backup, just option drag the project file into that folder. The finder will give it a name like project copy 1, project copy 2, and so on.
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I think the REV idea will be gone. Blu Ray is already making it obsolete. 24gig Blu Ray for $20-$30 is right in line with the cost of your REV disks. And in the future it’ll gain more density/storage. Just like CD-Rom and DVD disks, you can probably expect Blu-Ray to be compatible in more systems for a longer period of time than REV.
REV will go the way of zip and jaz. Both of which I have transferred to CD and DVD.
In fact, you can buy USB and FireWire hard drives for the same price of REV drives, so what’s the point?
That’s my .02.
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But what DRIVE is in a LaCie? If a batch of LaCie’s goes bad or is flawless, we need to be pinpointing the guts, not the shell. Of course these days a better box can make a difference as well, with fanless systems and all. But I think generally it’s the drive. Hitachi, Seagate, Maxto, WD, etc. I don’t trust IBM (Hitachi) drives. I’ve killed a couple of them, whilst in the same computer Western Digital and Maxtor were flawless. I’ve killed a seagate too, but they have such a good warranty now I’m buying them and have been happy.