Forum Replies Created

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  • Well, this is like asking “Is there a good choice for lunch?” as there are so many personal preferences.

    You will need to feed the mic into the computer (unless you intend to record it to a camcorder first).
    If you buy a “standard” mic (dynamic or electret [battery-powered] condenser), you can first connect the mic to a camcorder and send that in via FW.
    Or, you can connect the mic via one of several USB-connected audio inputs for the Mac.
    The Griffin iMic is popular and inexpensive but make sure you can adapt your mic’s output to a 1/8″ mini-jack input.
    There are many more USB audio input boxes, some with more complete mixing abilities.

    If you buy a “studio condenser” mic (which is one of the best quality mics for any kind of recording) the above connection options will apply… PLUS, you will need to Phantom Power the mic (some camcorders will do this, or you may need a separate mixer or power supply).

    As to WHICH mic… the debates tend to heat up.

    https://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/new_read_post.cgi?univpostid=854906&forumid=30&postid=854906&pview=t

    The link above is recent one over on the COW Audio Pro Forum.

  • Your Time
    +
    Dupe Cost
    +
    X% mark-up

  • Also, if you just DRAG it right from the timeline back into the Viewer window that works, too.

    (Lots of ways to do lots of things!)

  • Bouncing Account needs new email address

    September 30, 2005 at 8:52 pm in reply to: capturing from running camera

    It would be pretty easy to “create” a matching TC based on the tape after your live capture.

    Just capture a few of seconds from the DV tape at the start of your edit and then carefully “frame-match” the two by sight, then use the “match TC” feature to create a matching TC on your “live-captured” file.

    See the “Multi-Camera Tricks, Part I” movie at the following link and adapt its technique to your situation:

    https://www.rippletraining.com/free_tutorials_final_cut_pro.html

  • I’d trash the FCP Preferences and try again.

  • Bouncing Account needs new email address

    September 30, 2005 at 8:38 pm in reply to: Audio qUESTION

    Is it an issue of a 32 kHz audio recording on a 48 kHz Timeline?

  • You were not too clear about which Mac you were using, yours or theirs.
    If its theirs, does it have a second internal HD to capture to?
    FW drive?

    I have had no problems at all using absolutely ANY home video camcorder for capture, monitor or dub out.

    I have used many Panasonics, Sonys, even the super-cheap Sharp.

    Perhaps a better “back-up capture tool” (and easier-to-use EDITOR) would be iMovie.

  • No, you’re not alone in this opinion on these boards.
    But that doesn’t mean we necessarily ALL agree with you.

    I frequently do these kind of moves quite easily in FCP with fine results.

  • Bouncing Account needs new email address

    September 30, 2005 at 4:15 pm in reply to: What can it be?

    In a previous thread that you started,
    I specifically asked what camcorder you are using and how you have it connected.

    Now, you’ve started another thread and still no information.

    If you don’t tell us the model of the camera (and MORE), how can you expect us to help you?

    Sorry, but you need to do YOUR part of these questions if you want to solve them.

    Yes, we all have experienced HUM.
    But HUM can originate from so many places and hidden problems that there is not just ONE simple response to your question.

    Please, give the following:

    Camcorder (Make and Model):
    Audio Mixer (Make and Model):
    How are you connecting the cables from the mixer (did your audio engineer use a “ground-lift/earth-lift”)?
    What happens when you PLAY a tape in this camcorder that was recorded BEFORE you first heard the hum?

  • [celeste] “I have read that FCP 4.5 automatically adjusts the images according to the sequence settings.”

    True.

    [celeste] “once the playhead crosses a section where there are any black and while tif files,”

    You need to change/resave all images (even if B&W) into the “RGB Color” Mode.
    I’d check that.

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