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[ken Pugh] “couldn’t bring up anything in my searches using VOB as the keyword.”

For grins, I just did a search for “DVD to FCP” (which is the subject name that you chose yourself for this thread) and netted a HUGE number of posts.

It helps to try a couple of searches for common terms.

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Very frequently asked question.

https://www.dvdxdv.com/
https://www.miraizon.com/products/products.html
https://www.alfanet.it/squared5/mpegstreamclip.html

You can find answers to most questions in seconds with the “Search Posts” here on the COW.

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The first thing to always try is to Quit FCP, Restart the Mac, Open your FCP project and try again.

Next:
THE FOLLOWING COMES FROM THE KEN STONE WEBSITE:
“Over 5,000 years ago Confucius wrote: ‘If you are toiling away, you have changed nothing and FCP heads South on you, [starts behaving in strange ways] then it is time to trash your FCP Preferences.’ ”

Click the following link for instructions.

https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/trashing_fcp_prefs.html

A great way to do this is to use “FCP Rescue” a free Apple Script that will Trash the Preferences for you (and restore nearly all of your user settings afterward).
There are versions for FCPro & FCExpress.

Download these free Apple Scripts at

https://fcprescue.andersholck.com/

This is one FCP tip that has helped in hundreds of “odd” problems.

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Might help you if you posted this question on some other COW Forums:

https://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/new_view_posts.cgi?forumid=11

https://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/new_view_posts.cgi?forumid=17

If you do, please mention that you are “cross-posting” the same question.

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A choke is a coil (like the primary or secondary of a transformer).

The particular property of a choke is that it passes DC but will not pass AC.
(The opposite of a capacitor, which passes AC but not DC.)

In this telephone system, you can use a 12v or better still, a 24v DC power supply instead of a battery, but you must send the current to the phone line through a CHOKE (which will pass the DC to the line) so the AC (your voice audio is AC) will not pass back through the choke and get “filtered out” by the capacitors in the power supply.

You can use just about any transformer winding that is not too LONG in wire-length (so that it resists too much voltage) but is also heavy enough (in wire gauge) to carry the current needed (about an amp is fine).

Here’s a transformer from Radio Shack that should work as a choke for this purpose (there are others):

https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102700&cp=&kw=transformer&parentPage=search

Just connect the secondary winding in series with the positive (+) from the power supply.
(Connect the + from your DC supply to one of the red leads and connect the other red lead to your Red phone line.)

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Its a well-known bug.
Sometimes it won’t work after performing a “Log and Capture”.

Just train yourself to hit Command (apple)-S (Save All) very frequently.
That’s a good habit to learn when using most all programs.

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There’s no real need for a schematic.
All the telephones would be plugged into the SAME “line” (its just regular phone cord with the 4-pin plugs.)

You can have as many phones as you like and as much cable as you need. Just connect it all together with those little “Y” adapters that you use for adding phones, fax machines and answering machines to a wall connector. You can run all the lines to one spot and make all the connections there, or you can “hop-scotch” each one from the next… no difference at all.

For the battery, you want about 24v DC, so you could buy two 12v “LANTERN Batteries” (rechargeable would make sense) and hook them in SERIES to get 24v.

At the battery connection, buy one those little square telephone “wall plugs” (with the 4-pin jack and the 4 wires inside).

Typically, connect the PLUS side of the battery to the RED wire, and NEGATIVE of the battery to the GREEN wire and plug it into the same line as all the phone units are hooked to.

Any phone that is on this line will talk/listen to all the others.
Telephones are simple to connect.

And since ANY phone will work this way, as I said, you COULD connect any CORDLESS phone and try that, if you need to.

We just did a 3-day shoot with 4 cordless phones, one on each camera op.
We had to remember to re-charge the phones each night, but they worked just fine.
But, I’m still a big believer in WIRED communcation when its practical… it WORKS!

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A workaround would be to capture “around” the problem and then make FireWire dub (no generation loss) of just the section that’s “bad” to another camcorder or deck. Then capture that section from the dub tape.

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After I read your post, I fired up my DLP (InFocus) video projector and shot its image with a DV camcorder… PERFECT!

Now, I was feeding it with an NTSC DVD player (NTSC camcorder as well).

If you feed a CRT monitor with a COMPUTER, and shoot that CRT, you’ll get the customary “roll-bars/beat-bars/sync-bars” that we all know and love.

You said that the DLP projector at your shoot was being fed by a PowerPoint show (yuck for that, too) so I assume that what you were getting was the same “Computer Flicker” that you’d get with a CRT monitor (just BIGGER and BRIGHTER).

As mentioned above, a camera with a “computer shutter” would probably fix this.
I don’t see why the DLP would be a “unique scan rate” other than what the computer is sending it, if it does not create any special “shutter problems” when projecting NTSC images.

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You would basically be using the (current) DV SD edit as your “HDV off-line” edit.
I don’t know why it would not work.