Bob Zelin
Forum Replies Created
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you need to put your eSATA card in slot 2 or 3. I have no idea of why you are losing your other boards. May I suggest that you temporarily remove the FW 800 card, and make sure the eSATA card works ok. Remember, make sure to plug in those eSATA cables ALL THE WAY in, otherwise it will appear that the drives don’t mount on the desktop or Apple Disk Utility – I had this happen, and I thought I had a bad card. Get ONE sata drive working, and once it is woring, power off, and plug in your FW800 card in the other PC100 slot, and see what happens.
Bob Zelin
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the answer to your question is YES
bob zelin -
I would like to confirm what has been said here, as I went thru the same thing with both the AJ-HD130 AND the AJ-HD1200A. The AJ-HD1700A or the old
AJ-HD150 will do the insert and assemble. Not the “cheaper” decks.bob Zelin
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Bob Zelin
May 24, 2005 at 1:23 am in reply to: NEW AJA KONA software available now, Important Info re: FCP5 and TigerHello AJA –
I URGE YOU to NOT remove the previous versions of control panels and drivers that do not correspond to Tiger. I have numerous clients that have never upgraded to the new control panels or firmware becuase they were in the middle of a project, and were looking foward to doing the upgrade. If V1.1.1 is only available for Tiger, it means that people that do not upgrade to Tiger will have no ability to get the correct drivers for their AJA products.Thanks –
Bob Zelin -
Bob Zelin
May 23, 2005 at 10:17 pm in reply to: HDLink — HD-SDI to DVI input on Sony CRT — Possible? Pros? Cons?I question what you are saying about CRT HD consumer monitors. I am unaware of any CONSUMER CRT HD monitors on the market. There are hardly any PROFESSIONAL CRT HD monitors on the market. The typical example of this was the Sony PVM-20L5/1, which could scan the 1080i or 720p image, but just had 800 lines of resolution, and could never display the full HD resolution of 1920 x 1200. Please tell me WHAT CONSUMER CRT MONITORS are out there – what brand are they? And are they truly HD ?
Blackmagic and AJA promote the use of LCD CRT’s as a much lower cost alternative to the $35,000 typical Sony HD CRT QC monitor. Now please, don’t get me wrong, I LOVE the Sony PVM-20L5/1 monitor, and would rather work with this than a Sony SDM-P234b LCD monitor – I think it looks GREAT, and have never heard anyone complain about this CRT monitor – but they are in the process of being discontinued – they are no longer on the Sony website, and I am just trying to face reality.
So please don’t forget – please tell me what CONSUMER HD CRT monitors are out there. And remember, a Blackmagic HD Link is in your future – weather you like it or not.
Thanks –
Bob Zelin -
Bob Zelin
May 23, 2005 at 1:39 am in reply to: HDLink — HD-SDI to DVI input on Sony CRT — Possible? Pros? Cons?Chris –
the world is changing, and it does not include CRT’s. Your “crappy looking” LCD screen is what you are going to have to use to color correct with. I saw a dramatic example of this the other day. This FCP HD system had 4 monitors – an Apple 23″ Cinema, a Sony SDM-P234b (DVI with HD Link), and an Astro systems HD LCD monitor – AND a standard Sony 14L5/1. ALL THREE LCD monitors – all 3 all different manufacturers matched perfectly, but all 3 looked TOTALLY DIFFERENT than the Sony PVM-14L5/1. Now, Sony stopped making the PVM series – they stopped making all the CRT monitors, except for the most expensive HD monitors. And Panasonic stopped making all the CRT monitors as well. Chris – will there ever be ONE ad agency, one corporate board room, one client of yours that will EVER view an HD show on a HD CRT?
IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN. So you better get used to color correcting on LCD monitors, because this is what the ENTIRE WORLD is going to own, and if you insist on color correcting on a hi grade HD CRT, it will not match what EVERYONE ELSE will see that owns a HD display.Sorry – this is the way Sony and Panasonic and all the other Asian manufacturers want it to be – weather we like it or not.
Bob Zelin
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No professional black generator has a single output. Almost every professional Black generator has about 6 outputs. You simply take a single BNC cable from each output of the black generator, and plug it into the Ref Video input of everything you own that has a Ref input. You MUST put a 75 ohm terminator on items like the AJA I/O box, or AJA Kona 2, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE THE HORITA, or it won’t work. The Horita used an open collector circuit that needs to see a termination, and the AJA products do not have 75 ohm termination switches, like Sony VTR’s.
Bob Zelin
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the Genlock In, Reference In, etc. allows you to LOCK all of your video equipment to one common source, at one common frame rate (like 29.97, or 23.98). There are times when you can “get away” without using it, but why risk all the aggrivation, drift, sync bars, etc. when you can simply purchase an inexpensive color black generator (like a Horita BSG-50, Sigma BSG-26N, or so many others) and have everything properly locked to a common sync reference. IF you do this, you will never get the bizarro errors asked about so frequently on these user forums, because people are trying to save $289. There is not ONE piece of professional video gear manufacturered in the last 20 years that does not lock to an external reference signal, so long after your AVID/AJA/Blackmagic/Aurora/Cinewave product is long outdated, your color black generator will be just as useful in the next generation of products to come along 10 years from now. The color black generator used in old Linear rooms from the 70’s and 80’s is 100% useful on a modern non linear edit system.
How much is your aggrivation worth?
Bob Zelin
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Ron Amborn at Maxx Digital in California is well known for selling “third party” AVID drives in StorCase enclosures. He ships all over the world.
(714) 374 4944.Bob Zelin
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If you would like to eliminate the sync bar from your picture, simply take a short BNC cable and connect it between the reference input and the video input – . So for example – if you are going to record the output of your AJA I/O component signal into the UVW1800, take the COMPOSITE signal from the I/O, and send it into the Video INput of the UVW1800, and then use the little loop cable to feed the SAME signal into the REF Video Input. Voila !
No more sync bar.When I build facilities, I usually put in the loop cable, and bring the video input up to a patch bay, and normal color black into the video input on the bay. This way, there is never a sync bar, and whenever someone patches anything into the UVW1800, it never has a difference between the ref input and the video input. You never get Error -093 Non Std Ref, you never get the blue flashing stop light, and you never get the Sync bar in record.
Bob Zelin