Barry Green
Forum Replies Created
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[Catama Productions] “but I find that 100% looks way way way off in the LCD. I lose definition in the whites WAY before it “Zebras” at 100%.”
Then your LCD isn’t properly calibrated. Trust the zebras, not the LCD. The LCD is only vaguely accurate and cannot be used to 100% reliably judge exposure, whereas the zebras are mathematically accurate. If you have your zebras set to 105%, and no zebras are showing, then you are *not* clipping detail and you’re not losing definition in the whites, regardless of what the LCD shows. If you see zebras in the 105% area, you probably are clipping.
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[doka15] “The camera Shoots at 60 fps all the time”
No. The camera shoots as many frames as you tell it to. It can shoot 60 if you want, or 24, or 2. Let’s use two as the example, because 2fps makes it so much easier to understand what’s happening.
If you choose 2fps as your capture rate, the camera itself will image a distinct frame twice per second. Two frames per second. The shutter will open, the camera will capture the image for 1/2 of a second (assuming 350-degree shutter) and then the shutter closes. All the motion blur that happens during that frame will be imaged properly, exactly as a film camera would.
So you end up with two distinct frames per second, and only two frames per second.
If you recorded this in 720/24pN mode, the unit would record those two frames per second, and only those two frames per second.
If you recorded this in 720/60p mode, the 720/60p mode demands that 60fps be recorded. But the camera SHOOTS two frames per second. So each frame gets duplicated 29 times. Each of those two frames will actualy be recorded 30 times, so two frames shot per second get recorded 60 times per second.
What I can’t wrap my head around yet is why if I import a 60 fps stream and have FCP convert that to 24 it will be mushy and not the same thing as shooting in 24p.
Well, let’s compare shooting 2 fps (and recording into a 60fps stream) vs. shooting 60fps and converting that to 2 fps. If you shoot 60fps, 60 individual pictures are imaged, each distinct and standing alone. If you tried to convert that to 2fps, you’d have to blend and mush 30 frames all together to create one big hodgepodge mishmash that sort of tries to emulate what one properly-shot 2fps frame would look like. It’s not the same thing, not at all.
And while it’s theoretically feasible to try it anyway, let’s show why it’s totally not appropriate to try to do it from 60p to 24p. In that scenario you don’t have an evenly-divisible frame cadence. You’d have to do one of two things: either extract frames at varying intervals (say, the second frame, the fifth frame, the 8th frame, the 10th frame, etc) and just call that “24p” (even though the intervals between frames wouldn’t be consistent whatsoever) or you’d have to try to mush and blend frames, so that the first two frames get blended to create one, and then the next three frames get blended to create another one.
Obviously this is going to produce a result much less satisfactory than if you’d shot 24fps to begin with, which would result in 24 distinct frames being imaged, and each one being imaged at 1/24th of a second intervals.
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“tack sharp” is the question. All the lens adapters will introduce degradation in the overall sharpness of the image, from my experience with a few and looking at various examples on the web.
If you want to get more telephoto and remain tack sharp, you’d be better served to look at the Century Optics 1.6x teleconverter.
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[doka15] “When you say 24p ‘over 60’ do you mean shooting in the 24p mode that when you import into FCP it say 59.something?
Yes, the mode that records 60fps at all times but only images 24 distinct frames (and flags those distinct/unique frames). This is the mode that works the same as the VariCam does.
Shooting standard 24p it still captures 60 FPS but flags 24 of those frames per second?
Well, no, not exactly. Let’s clarify that: it captures 24 frames per second, and flags those, but it RECORDS 60. So it’s genuine 24p progressive capture, one frame 23.976 times per second, at 1/23.976-sec intervals. But when it gets recorded, it gets recorded into a 60p data stream. So the native frames are flagged, and then duplicate frames are added to pad out the sequence.
So if I shot something at 60 and convert to 24p will it flag those frames?
There’s room for confusion here that I’d like to eliminate. If you shoot at 60fps, you’ll have 60 distinct frames per second. “converting” that to 24p will result in a frame-blended mishmash of ugly simulated 24fps.
But, if you shoot at 24fps (even if it’s recorded into a 60fps data stream) and then strip out those duplicate frames (resulting in leaving only the 24 original fps) then you’ll have what you were after. And that’s how the 720/24p mode works.
In other words, if you want the 24p look, don’t shoot 720/60p. Shoot 720/24p or, if you want only the native frames, shoot 720/24pN. If you shoot 720/24p it will image only 24fps, and embed those 24 frames within a 60fps data stream.
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If you shot in 720/24p mode (“over 60”) and used the frame rate converter to extract the frames, then yes the results would be identical to 720/24pN mode.
If you shot in 720/60p mode (at 60fps) and then tried to smush those frames and convert them to a simulated 24p, then no, that won’t compare well at all to 720/24pN mode.
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It will not work in 720pN mode.
You’ll have to change the cameras to 720p mode, then sync ’em, then change back to 720pN mode. No timecode (or video data, or anything else really) gets sent out the firewire port in 720pN mode, so there’s no timecode to sync to.
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The cards will definitely drop. The 8gb was introduced at $2750, and by the time it shipped it’d dropped to $2200, and then dropped again (so it’s already dropped half its original price, $1400.) By the time the 16gb comes out I expect the 8gb will probably drop in half again, and the 16gb will start out at somewhere around $2200.
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The M2 is from https://www.redrockmicro.com. It’s a low-cost “indie” alternative to the Mini35.
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No that won’t work. Tried it, doesn’t work. The cards have all sorts of commands that they have to respond to, no generic flash reader is going to have the corresponding circuitry necessary.
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[Uli Plank] “Will the hack also get me higher rates than 50p on the European model?”
No, 50 is the maximum. It still looks fantastic though; check out the surfing action in this clip from Australia:
https://www.icexpo.com/HVX200/Sydney-Australia.wmvX(save as… and remove the “X” from the end.)
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Get the most from your DVX camera. The DVX Book and DVX DVD are now available on ebay and at Amazon (https://www.fiftv.com/db)