Adolf Witzeling
Forum Replies Created
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just load the artboard into Illustrator.
Go to and press . There you can resize by just dragging or in the transformation menu enter the precise dimensions you want the artboard to be.I don’t quite understand why you wouldn’t want the guides to move with the artboard. If you lay out a grid with guides wouldn’t you want the guides to stay the same when you move the artboard? Otherwise you would have to set up the guides again, every time you move the artboard around.
If that’s what you want you can always go to …, then you can select all or certain guides and simply delete them..cheers
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Hi,
it’s fairly simple:
1) convert the font to outlines.
2)select the converted font.
3)with the font selected go to …,
and while everything still selected GO TO
4) go to and select . Now you should be able to see and select the formerly transparent areas only with your selection tool and color it to your likening.hope that helps.
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Just my 2 cents worth of input. Vincent is right, don’t mix RGB and CMYK together.
Also: check preferences…Appearance of Black and make sure it’s set to output all blacks accurately (100% Black will stay 100%Black)and NOT rich black.Illustrator color mode needs to be cmyk.
Since you have probably heavy areas of black (zebra stripes) I would recommend to use these values. c:20, m:20, y: 20, Black: 100, this would help the printer to build up more density on the black. Stay away from 100% in all 4 colors; coverage shouldn’t be more than around 340% if you add al the cmyk values up).
Turn color management off in Illustrator, because if not, Ilustrator tries to color mange the file and the printer will do the same. Let only the printer “manage the colors” and not both.
Before you print create a pdf (color setting during the creation of the pdf should be: “leave as is…don’t color manage”.
Once created check the black in acrobat. If it’s different than what you set it to in Illustrator, it’s probably the earlier mentioned “Appearance of Black” in the preferences.
One more thing: Don’t print to uncoated paper stock, because the fibers suck up the ink and spread creating a muddy mess. Use coated or semi coated paper (aka: silk, -doesn’t need to be glossy)because the ink never hits the paper but sits on top of the coating and looks nice and crunchy.
Hope that helps,
Cheers,
Adolf -
Certainly, it’s fairly simple:
Create a NEW SWATCH, select CMYK as the swatches color space and
enter 40% in Cyan and 100% in Black. That’s it. This is a nice method of creating large areas of solid, deep almost like “steel”black.Without the help of cyan and as Jason said the use of 60C, 40M,40Y,it is a lot harder for the printing press to achieve a deep black; especially if you have other color elements, like pictures on the same page.
The reason is that in order to get the darkest K only black the press would need to run more black ink, which would affect the black part of any color picture on the page, making them muddy and ugly.Hope that helps,
chers,
Adi -
don’t flatten the file (meaning leave the text on its own layers) and save as .ps. That will keep the text layers intact, so when reopen they still will be editable.
chers,
Adi -
Hi,
rule of thumb is yor file should be between 1 1/2 – 2 times of your publisher’s (printer’s) screening resolution. If your book will be printed at 150 lines/inch (aka “line screen”) you should be good anywhere between 225-300 ppi.
If printed at 200 line screen your file should be between 300-400 ppi.Commercial printers use either 150, 175 or 200 line screen. Most use either 150 or 175 line screen.
So, to stay on the safe side downsample it to 400 so it could be printed at even 200 line screen. Everything higher would be excessive and just make the file size unnecessary large.
Excessive resolution will NOT give you a better printed image.
If you know which printer will be used to print your book, check with them what screen ruling they use (most likely 150 or 175).
A flat tiff or ps file will be acceptable to ANY printing house.
cheers,
Adi -
You are more than welcome. I’m glad it worked out.
Adi -
Instead putting a WHITE box the size of the artboard behind your artwork, make a box with NO fill and NO stroke (TRANSPARENT). That should do the trick.
cheers,
Adi -
by the way,
even if you set up the document in one spot color, when saving it still stays in “cmyk” mode (or “rgb”)-BUT that doesn’t mean it’s an cmyk file when being separated by a RIP. CMYK or RGB are just viewing modes that the monitor uses to DISPLAY your spot color correctly. It has nothing to do how it will separate (assuming all elements in the document are colored in the same spot color. You CAN NOT save a file without a valid color space. Every spot color has cmyk values embedded, so when you decide to print it in cmyk it’s just a numeric conversion on the RIP based on the colors embedded cmyk values.
Bottom line is no matter if it’s one or more spot colors you always have to choose a color mode (cmyk or rgb; stay away from rgb, some RIPs will not separate RGB based spot colors) when setting up the documnt which is only your preview mode.
There was nothing wrong with your file.
cheers,
Adi -
This maybe worth a shot:
1:To make it easier duplicate one shape and copy on a separate layer.
2:On bottom layer select the shape and make sure that “ALIGN STROKE TO CENTER” is selected.3: From the menu choose: OBJECT…PATH…OUTLINE STROKE
4: Select the shape again and go: OBJECT…UNGROUP
5: Select both ungrouped shapes
6: From the menu choose the “PATHFINDER” panel (if you don’t have it open already), and with both shapes still selected in the Pathfinder window choose “MINUS FRONT”in the “Shape Mode” section. This should leave you with the inside shape only.
7: Select the shape from the top layer and as before convert the stroke to outlines…again make sure “ALIGN STROKE TO CENTER’ is selected-then ungroup .
8: Select the inside area of the shape and delete. That should be it.
hope that helps,Adi