Tom Nelson
Forum Replies Created
-
I would consider this to be more of a banding issue. GenArts’ Sapphire effects has a DeBanding plugin that could take care of them – you can download it for free for three weeks before you have to pay the $2800 to keep it.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
We’ve got 4 of the CoolLights fixtures that are comparable to the 55 watt Kinos. I’m quite sure you can get 4 for the price of 2 Kinos, and you’ll need them all to effectively light up a screen of that size. I’ve successfully lit an 8×10 green screen with 2 55×4 Kinos, but I would have rather had more lights so I had more control spreading it out.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
Although your location would have been the most convenient place to use a generator indoors…
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
Are you shooting the entire recital, or just parts of it? Will you be moving around? On sticks, or handheld? There are a lot of factors that could influence your decision on focal length, and even as DSLR as a format.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
I have the 12-24 Tokina F4 for my wide range, and I’m happy with it. It’s built well, and for my uses (cars, mostly moving) I’m looking to have more in focus, thus ultimately eliminating the need for faster glass.
What do you shoot? This could certainly help answer your question. The lens works great for my subjects.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
Hmm…20 bucks later, it didn’t work. I will repost in FCP forum. Thanks anyhow.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
This is exactly what I was looking for – fantastic.
Thanks, Dan.
-Tom
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
I’m going to try to capture the perseids tonight and tomorrow night – I’ve done it in times past, and every time I learn new things. I’ve got a 7D and a 30D, and I’m going to do long exposure with both of them. Generally I’ll set them to ISO 100 5.6 (works best where I am in Connecticut, you may be able to open up a bit if you’re somewhere with less ambient) and stay open for 30 seconds. I use the Canon Intervalometer TC-80N3, because I can program it to constantly be exposing; the shutter just closes then opens again right away. I also use the Canon AC adapter, because your batteries won’t make it. Just set up your shot, press start on the 80N3, and walk away for a few hours. If you’re lucky, one of your hundreds of exposures will have a meteor in it. If you use a long lens obviously, you’re less likely to get one but it will be more pronounced. As for your EX, I’ve never done it with video but can imagine that you could burn a lot of media and the review process would be much lengthier than stills, and potentially more dissapointing. I’d love for you to prove me wrong, though – it certainly is worth a shot.
I’ve read that the meteors will be most visible between the Big Dipper and the North Star, so that’s where I’ll be pointing my 200mm on my 7D. I’ll post my results here if I get anything good this time.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group -
I’m going to be seeing the ground in the shot, so I want to avoid a massive shadow from a silk – and we’re going to be seeing sky, so I want to avoid bringing my foreground light levels down too much to cause my sky to be blown out.
I’m almost thinking that your white card bounce (or maybe even a gold reflector), which could be above the arc of the camera, could reflect a bright overhead sun (or possibly a sun that’s slightly backlighting our talent), and give me the foreground light I want. Clouds, and we bring in an HMI. It’s gotta be more complex than that though, right?
Thanks for the quick reply, BTW, Todd.
-
Tough question. It depends on what kind of shooting you’re going to be doing – I’d want to invest in a solid, smooth video tripod if I was doing shoots on dollies and locked down, for sure. I think a home-built dolly is the way to go to save money – just go on youtube and search for a how-to. If you’ve got any money after that, I would recommend an HDMI monitor, like the Marshall 70p, so you can reference your shots better. If you’re doing mostly hand-held, a Red Rock micro stabilization system with follow focus and an LCD viewfinder attachment would be a good purchase. I’d say set up a test shoot similar to one you would normally be doing. Try the shoot with the gear you’ve got, and at the end, determine the peices of gear that you would have wanted to have the most.
Tom Nelson
Videographer/Editor
Essex Television Group