[Tom Matthies]

An article.

https://www.gcmstudio.com/bake/bake.html

Tom

E=MC2+/-2db

[Tom Matthies]

Create a graphic, crop it and keyframe the crop.

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[Tom Matthies]

Set your white balance switch on the side of the camera to PST (the Preset/A/B switch)
Then toggle your white balance switch on the front of the camera up. Each toggle of the switch will switch the preset white balance between 32K and 56K (indoors/outdoors or tungsten/daylight).
It will get you close in a situation where you can’t get a proper balance.
FWIW, the preset outdoor balance is a bit warm for my taste.
A proper white balance is always the best.

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[Tom Matthies]

I’m not sure I’d be so quick to blame just the camera. We have 7 of them around here and haven’t seen what you are describing at all. If the shutter was on, it could give you that look. If the fields (upper/lower) are shifted in playback you will get a terrible stuttering look. If you are shooting at 24fps and move the camera very quickly, you will get a stuttering look-same as with film. If everything is set correctly, these cameras will make a very good picture, especially for the price. The way that the chips are read out is different than the way that CCD’s are read, (the rolling shutter) but it shouldn’t make that much of a visible difference in everyday shooting.

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[Tom Matthies]

Oops, that would be OPTION-V, not COMMAND-V.
That should work for you. My bad.
Tom

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[Tom Matthies]

Also, check the sensor in your camera for dust next time. It will show up when using small lens apertures.

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[Tom Matthies]

De-select all the clips in your timeline. Load the new shot in the viewer window. Click in the Viewer window. Command C to copy. Now, click on the clip you want to replace and Command V. Select Content and the new clip will replace the old clip and keep all of the attributes, filters and motion.

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[Tom Matthies]

After spending too much non-productive time reading the thread above, for me it simply comes down to this; Old Fart or Yousgster-it doesn’t matter. What matters is making a living off of our business. I would say that I fall into the old fart category, chronologically but not technically. I’ve been making a living off of this industry for going on 40 years now and can still keep up with the “Kids” easily. What matters most to me is this: can the tools I have available right now enable me to make a decent living? That’s it. Simple. Can I still make a living off of Studio 3 and FCP 7 along with many other applications? Absolutely. Can I make a living using FCPX? Definitely not. It doesn’t (yet) have the functionality I require for the projects I do. Will it in the future? Possibly. Hopefully. It’s just that Apple has left a bad taste in my mouth over how they are handling the whole FCPX thing. But that’s a discussion for a different day. In the meantime I’ll be sticking with one of the reliable old “A’s” – Apple, Avid and Adobe until things shake out a bit. This will help strengthen all three in the long run, I feel. I have no problem learning and trying new methods to achieve what I need. It’s just that I also have to be able to pay the bills at the same time. I always keep a keen eye on the industry and adapt my workflow as the technology evolves, but the fact of the matter is, I won’t be a trend setter anytime soon. But I also don’t need to worry about being called a dinosaur either. Like most of us in the business we keep our eyes open to what works and what doesn’t and modify out workflow on a regular basis to keep up with trends. I tend to be cautious in jumping on anything new and shiny until I can see just how it fits into what I require for my production work. If it works and I need it, I will adapt. If not, I will pass it by. It’s not so much a matter of blaze ahead or be left behind. It’s a matter of what works for you in a given situation. Right now, FCPX doesn’t work for me. Simple. Oh, and I do have an iPad that I use as a remote control surface for some hardware boxes I use. It’s great for that and I use it all the time. But editing on an iPad? Nope, not yet. That’s not saying “never” however, just not today, thank you.
Tom

E=MC2+/-2db

[Tom Matthies]

As I understand it, the image will soften if shooting with a high f-number. It looks like diffraction problems at small lens openings is common. I usually dial in as much ND as I need and try to shoot around f-4 or so. That seems to be the sweet spot.
Tom

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[Tom Matthies]

Letterbox + Pillerbox = Letterbox

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