[Thompson Coles]

First off “Paint is NOT Paint” Chroma paint is VERY special. absolutely no shine, a LOT of pigment (why it dries so slow) not Home Center counter is going to be able to come close. If they could the stuff wouldn’t be 50-75$ it would be 25. I agree the stay with the fabric. There is a chance you could Double key the setup and pull both colors, but at what cost. As for matching, it took 6 gallons to cover the screen and floor at the studio i used to work at. (at the least) I could tell you stories of how ambitious new people would just paint the scyc wall and how our engineer would see 6 different color. Always Mix all of the paint together to achieve a match color. matching paint is hard enough, matching chroma paint to paint is even harder.

Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

I guess my question is “does the source absolutely need to come from above.” I would suggest a small or midget senior stand and place the para-beam above the setup at a 45 degree angle or less and use foam-core to bounce on the opposite angle. almost making a wedge shape above the scene. the opposite side will have a little less light but that might come in handy, who knows. I have only been able to table a Para-Beam 400 in a studio setting. partly because of the weight, mostly because they carry a Senior Spud on the end and a sturdy lighting boom with a Senior receptacle is hard to find.

i hope this can help
Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

I Think that a Base knowledge in photography is essential to cinematography. It sounds a little extreme but go buy Ansel Adams book “the Camera” It will explain photography in ways that can be directly used in cinematography. I think it’s the single best photography book for anyone wanting to learn the core use of film principals.

[Thompson Coles]

The solution is only a workaround. you need to duplicate the kona capture profile that you want to use..DV 50 , or whatever. Then rename it so that it becomes a custom profile. after you rename it, go into the profile and change the input from 625 to 525. verify that all of the other setting are as they should by and your card will stop switching formats at capture. you must of course use the profile that you created …

I hope that this works well for you.
Let me know

Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

I’m wondering if it is possible to get above the walls with a light.

I’m thinking of two ways, and without seeing the scene I’m guessing. the first way would be to put a light above the walls and shoot a tasteful cucoloris of a window on the wall.
The other is to add reflective material in the window, over the glass or whatever is there. Then shoot an HMI into it, presumably casting light as if from the window. that is if you are not seeing a lot of the window.

I hope that you can figure something out, and that my brainstorming helps

Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

I think the title I’ve seen is “Additional Editing By” that seems more appropriate

[Thompson Coles]

Thanks, I talked to them and it seems that if you create a custom setting and change the input from 625 to 525 then you will be ok. thanks for the update though.

[Thompson Coles]

after a conversation with AJA the problem has been fixed. FYI to anyone looking to upgrade the drivers, wait a week or two until the bugs a fixed on this current update.

Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

Compressor will create two files when you use the DVD preset settings. one is the video the other is audio. you should import both files into DVD studio Pro or your authoring program and drag them both into a timeline. This will create a video track that can be used by the program. I’ve seen people use a single MOV file that has both video and audio to create the timeline. this always seems to create longer processing times because the authoring program re-compresses the file.

Thompson

[Thompson Coles]

So I ask my father (master electrician) if the same device existed a couple of years ago. good news they do, a nifty device that you can plug into an outlet ant it will estimate that circuit’s current draw. The bad news is that they start at around $1,500 and are really hard to find. I cannot even remember what they are called. I’m sure that if you searched the Klein tools website you might find one. Since it is out of my budget I never pursued it. Here’s what I do, first of all I do the same thing that I’m sure you and others do every time i use local power with my lights. I ask if someone there has any clue to the power situation, breaker box, distribution, load limit. second i warn them that I am not just plugging in a light bulb, more like 150 light bulbs. this sometimes helps with people getting pissed if i trip a breaker.

after all of that here is what i look for when i.m searching for power.

I count the outlets. not individual plugs, but the boxes. most current office buildings will have no more than outlet locations per circuit and that is massivly pushing it.

i never use two outlets that are in sight of each other (exception is on a large show room and they have to be across the room in a bg way)

Look for a break room with a sink. the reason i say that is usually a kitchenette is given it’s own circuit. unplug the microwave and pray the fridge doesn’t have a ice maker.

I try to use a line from the garage, a line from the kitchen, a line from the bathroom, a line each from opposite sides of the house or building.
if there is an exterior plug that works at times.
I avoid anything that already has a power strip connected to it. also car dealers are famous for making cubicle office space with everyone on the same power.

good luck I hope this was somewhat helpful.

Thompson