[Steven Gonzales]

I think the 4:1 / 6:1 ratio means that he is shooting footage equal to 4 to 6 times the length of the finished film.

So a 30 minute film would shoot 120 to 150 minutes of footage.

You should find out how the film will be finished, whether it will end as a video, DVD, or if the negative will be cut and a film print made. This will help you decide how to proceed.

[Steven Gonzales]

He was trying use humor to tell you that your question needed more detail. The more information you give, the better the answer you will receive.

There are various cameras that use different versions of 24p.

[Steven Gonzales]

Horita has some software called PC-LOG that captures time code or user bits. Perhaps you could use that to collect timecode to user bit (keycode), then match that to information from a Final Cut batch list somehow.

https://www.horita.com/

[Steven Gonzales]

With your “dropping down through the suites” of equipment, you will eventually have a decent set up in your break room and broom closet!

[Steven Gonzales]

Those instructions for the plugin weren’t mine, I just had saved them on my system.

Here’s another post on the subject that might help.

https://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/new_read_post.cgi?forumid=8&postid=833858

[Steven Gonzales]

When film is transferred to video, the process is done by fields. A field is one half of the interlaced video frame. Interlaced means the odd number lines, and the even number lines of each video image are scanned separately onto the display.

So the first frame of film creates 2 fields, the second frame of film creates 3 fields (1 and 1/2 frames). 12 of the film frames (every other one) created 2 fields, and 12 of the film frames (the opposite every other one) created 3 fields. That is 24 fields and 36 fields, which equals 60 fields, which is 30 frames of video. Film has been transferred to video, although some of those video frames contain information from 2 film frames. That’s what you want to remove with reverse telecine.

You should read the Cinema Tools User’s manual. You can’t expect yourself to know what’s going on if you’ve never done it before. But on the other hand, you have resources that you haven’t used yet. Online discussions are fine, but reading source material is more efficient.

As for where in Cinema Tools you place the results of your exploration with the Cadence plug in:

Page 57 of the Cinema Tools User Manual “To open the Reverse Telecine dialog, do one of the following”

[Steven Gonzales]

Graeme Nattress has a free plug in to detect cadence at this location:

https://www.nattress.com/Free/freeFCP.htm

Here’s some instructions I got somewhere:

Nattress plug in to detect cadence:

CT makes you do a lot of hard work. It’s not automagic. You have to tell it the correct starting frame for the pulldown sequence. You can find a free plugin on my site to help with this. You use it in FCP, with the 29.97 footage on a 29.97 timeline, view 100% square pixels turned off so you can see the interlacing. Park on a frame with pretty obvious interlacing, and hit the auto button and it tells you how much to move the offset. Move around a few frames so that you can see if the whole and split frame sequence in the display matches you video. If so, go back to the first frame and read off AA BB etc. and that’s what you enter into CT.

[Steven Gonzales]

Problems come from overuse of certain muscles, and underuse of others. Since beginning yoga practice regularly, I have reduced problems almost completely.

Here is a site with some stretches which are useful for rsi:

https://www.will-harris.com/yoga/rsi.html

Also, if you’re right handed, this mouse is helpful, though not fancy (only two buttons):

https://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ergonomics/home/products/ergonomicmouse/

[Steven Gonzales]

Start with a simple tutorial to get a basic idea.

Then read the manual. Not the whole thing: read the table of contents, and the intro paragraph from each chapter. Then play with the program for a while. Then pull down each menu, and see what in the submenus, and look up the things that sound interesting, and look up everything else later.

If you buy a book, look for one that isn’t a rewrite of the manual (because you could just read that for free, right?).

I haven’t looked in years, but I believe I remember Tom Wolsky’s book having comments about which audio filters were more useful than others. Look for this type of thing: something that indicates the book is giving you something the manual doesn’t. Opinionated is good — you’re looking for a perspective, since the original manual give mostly equal weight to everything.

[Steven Gonzales]

Subtitles are stores separately on a DVD.

https://zuggy.wz.cz/guides/video.htm