Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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Peter I don’t think there is anything you can do to correct this – the camera is capturing exactly what happened. In theory, if you removed every other frame (the frames filled with a flash) and then replaced that frame with a copy of the one before or after it, then all the flash frames would be removed but I still think it would look weird (slow motion? and off-sync)
There are tutorials online for ADDING flash effects to your video but I don’t think there can be any on removing them…maybe there is a creative work around I haven’t thought of however, let’s hope! 🙂
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Yep, I was going to suggest the same as Joe
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Did you get any kind of overheating warning?
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
You could have potentially left the overhead flos off and simply increased your ISO so long as this didn’t result in too much noise in your picture. Also you should be able to match the color somewhat in post anyways- for instance Final Cut Pro has a match color feature where you can make colors appearing in two different clips match each other lookwise.
Anytime you are dealing with daylight – that’s an uncontrolled light source for the most part so the light is going to be constantly changing anyways. If you want absolute control you’d have to block out the light from the windows and only use artificial lights for all of your shots – then it doesn’t matter what time of day it is.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
No, he’s right…research custom picture profiles for DSLRs and you will find that most very much tone down the color saturation so that in post you can bring them back to the degree you want. Some people who don’t plan on doing any great deal of color correction might just go with the standard picture profiles and call it a day…it all depends. You aren’t actually permanently losing any color information by filming a less saturated picture since you can bring it back in post. My 2 cents is now yours.
Oh, and protecting the highlights has to do with exposure and making sure you don’t accidentally overexpose the image and end up recording pure white in sections of your picture…THAT you can’t really do much about, the information is gone at that point. So yes, underexpose a bit and maybe undersaturate too.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
What happens when you try and copy the mov file over to your computer? Does your computer “see” the file or just the other ones that copied over okay?
If the camera can see and play the file back then you might try using the software that came with the camera that is normally intended to allow you to control the camera from the computer. If this software allows you to play back the clip then you should be able to screen capture it
You said you tried screen capturing but it didn’t work, why not? What happened?
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Yeah I don’t like the way the rig sits when it is screwed to the bottom of the camera, it’s offset to one side and that makes the rig more unstable than it has to be. I also didn’t like their suggestion of mounting it to the cold shoe which could make the camera top heavy – those are just my initial thoughts but so far I don’t see myself every purchasing one.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
I’ve been looking at the Jag35 series of products, I think you can start with one of their basic “street runner” models and then build it out slightly, that’s what I’m looking at but, maybe like you, I’m waiting for the cash fairy to visit before making any purchases. 🙂
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Hi Matt,
Re: “In your timeline delete the camera audio and then select the video and new audio and use the Link function”
I don’t see how that could work – if you delete the camera original audio, there’s nothing to sync the good audio to. I often manually sync my Zoom H4N good audio to camera audio but I do it simply by dragging the Zoom audio underneath the camera audio soundtracks and then matching waveforms
playing both soundtracks simultaneously tells me if I did it right…if I don’t hear any echo or two completely different soundtracks then I’m golden – at that point I can hit control L as you suggest and unlink the bad audio from the video clip and can also link the good audio to the video clip instead. If I want to take the extra step, I can then export just that section of the timeline to create an entirely new clip with good, synced audio.
All the best Matt
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com