Steve Crow
Forum Replies Created
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Using a Rode VideoMic or any other mic to feed directly into the camera will shut off the camera’s built-in microphone and the videos files would use the sound from the Rode instead – that part is correct. But that is still considered the sync sound, not the real sound. Yes, it will be better sound than using no external mic at all but still not probably good enough for your final video…that’s where the lavalier mic and the Zoom comes in.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
I’m not as familiar with the Zoom H2 since I have the Zoom H4n but I will give this a shot. The idea is that you would use the Zoom H2 as a digital recorder and not for it’s built-in mics. What you would do, typically, is set up the interview subject with a wired or wireless lavalier microphone and then feed the signal into the Zoom H2. This allows you to monitor the sound coming in live into the H2 and make any necessary adjustments. You could also use some kind of overhead boom mic instead of a lav to get great sound of the interview subject and then again feed the signal into the H2.
Now the built in mic on all these DSLR cameras are basically do-do! So what people usually do is buy another external microphone, like the Rode VideoMic, mount it using the camera’s hot shoe and feed that signal into the camera body using the external mic input. This is just to improve the quality of the soumd captured with your video clip – better sound means an easier time syncing the sound recorded by the camera with the sound captured by the H2 – which is the good sound that you eventually want your all clips to use, makes sense?
Regarding the specific lens you mention, I assume it would work with Auto Focus but for a variety of reasons it is recommended that you focus manually. The Canon kit lens 18-55mm is another piece of do-do, buy the body alone and then get the Canon 50mm 1.4 lens which is a great lens for $300 or so – no, it’s not a zoom but I use something called “my feet” to provide that zoom functionality for me, ha ha! If by the new quieter kit lens you are talking about that pancake lens that was announced with the new T4i – the issue I see with that is that the focus ring is very narrow making it hard to focus manually- I don’t rely on AF because it is too easy to make mistakes and focus on the wrong thing in the picture, but then again I’m filming interviews not race cars so this works for me.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Take a look here: https://forums.creativecow.net/thread/280/7346#7361
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Its very hard to tell what is going on from your description. First of all – regarding the settings do you mean you were filming at:
1920 x 1080 HD
1/50th shutter speed
25 frames per secondA rolling bar like this is most often caused by filming under fluorescent lighting that is flickering. It has to do with the shutter speed of the camera as compared to the cycle rate of the electricity in your country. If you search this forum you will find several discussions concerning this problem and some filters you might try in FCP to make the issue less noticeable. Why this would happen only at the end of your interview I do not know unless the fluorescent lights were starting to fail and thus were flickering even more.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
For best results your shutter speed should be kept at 2x the frame rate so in my case since I always film at 24p I keep my shutter speed at 1/50th and I consider it locked there and never change it. Going to faster shutter speeds will begin to make your video look a little jerky like the old fashioned hand-cranked film cameras from the 1920’s. People try higher shutter speeds as a way to cut down light so that their pictures are blown out but a better solution is to use ND filters to cut down the light…I do this all the time in order to get a shallow depth of field look to my video but I know the original poster wanted DEEP depth of field
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
If you want sharpness like you get with the Hv20 on your DSLR, use a slow aperture of F8 or smaller and make sure if you are using a custom picture profile setting that the sharpness level is turned all the way or most of the way to the maximum. You can also check the sharpness settings for whatever picture mode you are using to shoot video. The small chip size on the HV20 also creates sharper, and a deep depth of field (as opposed to shallow) out of the box just because of the physics involved.
Having said that, increasing sharpness will make your video look less and less like film – film has a softer look to it than video. So yes HV20 footage may be perceived as sharper but there’s a reason I and many other left the camcorder style cameras behind. People with a photography background seem to be among those who are the best “pixel peepers” – and they often bring up this sharpness concern but for me it’s totally not a concern.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
Yeah I think you were trying to focus on “air” that was too far away….keep the camera in the same spot pick something like the stop sign, focus on that, keep your aperture at F8 or higher and you should get a deep depth of field….you need a physical object to focus on, at least I can’t focus “between” things only “on” things 🙂 Raise your ISO one click too….remember too that the Phiillip Bloom settings have you turn the sharpness all the way down to zero so don’t expect huge sharpness, besides sharp video is well….video, not film, a little softness is actually good!
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com -
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Can you explain exactly what look you are talking about? I watched the entire music video
https://www.directlyrics.com/maroon-5–payphone-music-video-news.html
but didn’t notice anything all that unusual….perhaps you can include a screenshot from the music video
OR did you mean this cartoon version a
t https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FlQSQuv_mg????
If so that is an animation that has nothing to do with video grading…they did some nice “fake 3D” effects by putting certain pieces of artwork in the foreground and others further in the background and then doing some simple animations. You could easily make something like that in Apple Motion or Adobe After Effects using a 3D camera technique
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
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The first step is to copy the ENTIRE content of your memory card over to your computer or to an external drive and then back it up so that you have two copies of the original files. Don’t simply use your camera as a card reader, instead use an external memory card reader that you plug the memory card in, otherwise you risk not getting all the files copied over.
Next step is usually to convert the video files to another format before working on them. For editing in Final Cut Pro on a Mac I select ProRes 422 using the program MPEG Streamclip. That should work well for you too unless you are on a PC then you will need to convert to another format, others here on this forum can advise you on that.
Steve Crow
Crow Digital Media
http://www.CrowDigitalMedia.com