[Ryan Hill]

I think there should be an arrow to the left of the keyframed property. Click on that to open it up, and it’ll give you a graph that you can play with to adjust the speed.

[Ryan Hill]

I got that part, I was just thinking about how to get the texture on this 3D object to match the 2D background.

But now that I’ve thought about it, it shouldn’t be too hard to take the shape of the 3D layer in perspective, and then transform the corresponding part of the 2D image to fit the full-sized square of the 3D layer. Maybe using morph or corner-pin distort, or something?

[Ryan Hill]

It’s kind of a glowy effect, right?

https://www.quantumleap-alsplace.com/imagingchamber/projectQL.htm
https://www.sftv.ch/hoehl/ql/ql.htm

Shine plugin?

[Ryan Hill]

The paper folding sequence was probably acheived with stop motion.

It would be possible to fake the folding in After Effects, but difficult.

[Ryan Hill]

Yeah. That’s what adjustment layers are for. Before I understood how they worked, I was pre-comping everything.

[Ryan Hill]

Create an adjustment layer. Apply the blur plus something that will lighten it, maybe levels?

[Ryan Hill]

Cheapest way, immitate a motion lamp. Superimpose little wavy lines and move them down.

If you want to get a little fancier, paint a few seperate overlays based on the photo. Make one kind of white noise, one looks like the reflected sky, and one look like there’s no water at all. Make masks for all three so it closely matches what you see in the photo. Slide the white noise down, and slide distortion maps that you apply to the other two.

Failing that, smooth out the white water in the photo, and add dark particles that follow the shape of the falls, masks so the particles only appear where there is white water. Then add some light particles to make mist coming off the falls.

Those are some ideas.

[Ryan Hill]

So you mean you’d project the image onto a grey wall? I guess that seems like a reasonable approach. Try to set up the lights so none of them shine directly on the wall. Put black shutters on the bulbs if you have to. Think about where the other walls will reflect light, and make most of it go away from your grey wall.

For a lot of this, the only way you’ll know for sure is if you test it.

[Ryan Hill]

Yeah. Radial blur will do a decent job. Duplicate the layer, make it 3D, shine a spot light on it, apply radial blur and change the mode to “add” or “lighten.” Animate the light and the centre of the radial blur so they match up, maybe sync them with an expression.

Or something like that. Play around with it until you get something that looks decent. You might need to pre-comp the layer somewhere in there, maybe between the light and the radial blur. Maybe apply a find-edges filter and play around with the levels. Fractal noise could make the light more tendrilly.

There, that’s my off-the-top-of-my-head tutorial. I was going to post something like this before, but I couldn’t remember the name of “radial blur.”

[Ryan Hill]

I really don’t understand what you are asking for, and I don’t think maverick13 does either.

Are you asking for an actual holograph projector? That’s more of a hardware question than a rendering question.

If you’re trying instead to create a video simulation of some sort of sci-fi device, you can probably change the Layer mode to “lighten” or “add” and then position it as a 3D layer.

Can you give one more shot at describing what it is that you are trying to acheive?