Rick Wise
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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From what I see in your picture, I see zero need to slow down the window. If, however, you want to open the blinds, then you probably will need to do that. Remember, it never looks real if the outside balances with the inside. Let the outside be about 2-3 stops “too” hot. How much ND would you need? No idea. Probably ND 6 (2 stops) but maybe much more. There is also RoscoScrim, but it needs to be out of focus to be invisible. It will help you if the sun is aimed toward your window, so that whatever you see out the window is in the shade — unless it’s a large open space.
An exception to letting the outside be hot is when you have a room where the wall is essentially one giant window, and the outside really visually moves into the inside. Then you need to make it all look “correctly” exposed. You can see an interesting example of how difficult that can be in the movie, Miami Vice. The scene in the drug lord’s house. According to reports I’ve read, the DP had a bank of 18 Ks only a few feet from the actors, which was most uncomfortable. And it still didn’t look right, to my eyes. This is a situation where film shines and video still sucks, though it’s catching up quickly.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks, Terry. That does it.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Your color-corrected shot looks quite pleasant, decidedly high-key. If you like, you could use one-half CTO to warm up the window light a bit, but if everything is daylight — the fluoros, the window, etc., there’s no reason to do so unless you want the outside light to look warm as if it were late afternoon or early morning light.
It is highly likely you are correctly seeing a green spike in the existing fluorescents. All ordinary fluorescents have this spike. Professional fluorescents, such as KinoFlos, do not.(The eye actually has a hard time catching that green.) If the dominant light source in the room is existing fluorescents, then one way to handle them is to add about 1/4 PLUS green to everything else — windows, additional correctly balanced lights. The other way to go is to add about 1/4 MINUS green (magenta) to the fluorescents, taking away their green spike.
However, from your color-correct image, it looks to me like that’s a lot of unnecessary work. In post you seem to be easily able to remove the green spike. The other thing you might play with is the color curve for your shot(s) — boost the highlights and crush blacks a bit — in effect adding a steeper gamma than the original. This almost always works to improve video footage.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Your suggested methods will produce decent results. If this guy is really, really good, I would go another route. I’d forget the colored gels. If possible, I’d place him in a large empty space with, preferably, windows on only one side of the room. Even better if the windows face South and you have splashes of sunlight on the floor. I’d put him where he is in very soft light and turn him partly sideways to the key (windows.) Then I’d put the tiniest rim light on him to just separate him from the dark background. I’d pick camera angles so that parts of him and his guitar are in deep shadow, and there is a soft wrap from deep shadow to highlight. I’d shoot some very wide shots that show the whole room and him tiny in it. If possible, I’d dolly around from the total shadow side to 3/4 lit, from time to time, at different frame sizes. If possible, he would be “playing” to playback of his own recording, so that you have no continuity problems.
If you must record him in his own studio, you could adapt the above ideas.
You might also consider shooting each song in a different location. Available light, well chosen, does wonders. Less is more.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks, David. I use FlixPro 8 and am thoroughly pissed off at On2 for their one-computer policy. On2, which charges about $250 per license, will not let you install their Flash converter on two of your computers. I’m going to try Moyea and if it works as well as Flix Pro, use it on my laptop.
By the way, if you buy directly from Moyea they want $99 for the program, but it’s $69 elsewhere.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks, John. Yes, the tilde works great. All I need. I wonder why the pull-down menu for “view” doesn’t list that shortcut while it does list others.
As for not being able to customize the keyboard, that remains a mystery. Yes, I did press add. And each time I bring up “minimize” in the customize keyboard, the shortcut is listed. But it doesn’t’ work.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks for the clarifications.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks. Actually, I already did that. Figured out that if I click on the smaller icon top right, I can move the entire display over to the other monitor, then drag just the preview back to the first, which is where I want it. All good. Thanks.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks for the Z1 tip. I’ll try that.Any other solution seems very costly.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com -
Thanks! You can still get that hard drive for $99.99 at Amazon: https://tinyurl.com/55yone. I think I’ll go for it. It’s half the price of the La Cie d2 that a Mac friend recommends. For $200 I can get two of them, which gives me quick and easy backup, so essential to peace of mind and general well being.
Rick Wise
director of photography
Oakland, CA
http://www.RickWiseDP.com
email: Rick@RickWiseDP.com