Rick Diamond
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Bob. Yeah, this is a lot of fun. After doing some pretty extensive testing, I’ve decided on the profiles I mentioned. Neutral for interiors and Faithful for exteriors. Sharpness at 1, Contrast at -4, Saturation at -3. These settings give me the most dynamic range with the least noise. In addition to Cinestyle, I’ve tried the Cinema and Flaat profiles. Cinema, in my opinion is just another look. It’s not a flat picture style. Flaat does the dynamic range job, but, like Cinestyle, is too noisy. Of course, these are the results from my 5D Mark III. It might be different on the 60D or any other DSLR for that matter. I’m looking forward to checking out Magic Lantern when it’s ready for the MKIII. I need my zebras!
Today, I’ll be doing some ISO testing. On a shoot last week, I noticed a lot of noise on some exteriors, which were probably shot at very low ISO.
Rick
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Can you post a sample of your video?
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Hi Chris. At the end of the video, you mention using Technicolor Cinestyle. This picture style always has to be graded. If you don’t want to grade try using Neutral for interiors and Faithful for exteriors. Sharpness 0 or 1, Contrast -4, Saturation -3. If needed you can still grade in post and add sharpness if necessary. I find that, on my 5D Mark III, Cinestyle is too noisy and requires too much grading. It does, however, substantially increase the dynamic range.
Rick
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Sounds like a great work-around. I’ll give it a try.
Rick
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You may need to contact Sony to have them adjust the back focus. I couldn’t find it, so I googled it and discovered that back focus is an issue for many NX5Us. Sony most likely will be able to tell you how to adjust it yourself. It’s also known as flange focus.
Rick
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The camera most definately should hold focus after zooming out. If it isn’t you’ll need to adjust the back focus.
As far as sharpness goes, it depends on your expectations. I shoot and edit footage from the EX3 and NX5 regularly. Without question, the images from the EX3 are considerably sharper. You’ll be able to achieve a decent amount of perceived resolution if you throw a lot of light on the subject. Exteriors on a bright sunny day are a perfect example. The EX3 and NX5 match fairly well under these conditions. Unfortunately, the image quickly deteriorates when shooting interiors using available light.
As with any camera.I would be careful when turning up the detail. If you go too high, the image will “ring” and look unnatural. In my side by side tests, I find shooting progressive will give you a very slightly sharper image than interlaced. And, as mentioned, whenever the light allows, shoot at -3dB or -6.
Rick
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How about exporting a still frame of each slide as a jpg or png since they’re static slides. You can then bring them into the Premiere project and extend the still as long as you like on the timeline.
Rick
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Sorry Blake, I read that as wide open iris instead of wide focal length. Yes, if the iris is closed down, the image most likely will be very soft.
Rick
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I’ve had some issues as you’ve been describing. I powered down and when the camera rebooted, it was OK. If memory serves, it was while using the Sony wide angle adapter, which is normally rock solid for optics. Of course, the adapter may have had nothing to do with it. I’ve tried to duplicate the problem, but have not been able to. You’re right about closing the iris down. Anything smaller than F8, in my opinion, is not advised, but you did say it happened with the iris wide open.
Rick
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Bob, take a look at the Ikan monitors. Both the 5.6″ (V5600) and 7″ (VH7E) have 1024×600 resolution. The 7″ is newer and less expensive and has more bells and whistles.
Rick