Olof Ekbergh
Forum Replies Created
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I like Atto cards. Promise SAS RAIDS are good value. None of these are cheap.
Consider using ProresHQ instead of uncompressed and you can get away with E-sata and FW 800 raids
Olof Ekbergh
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Check this out.
It works with Sony VCT-U14.
The baseplate is a necessity to keep bottom of EX3 from ripping out in normal ENG EFP use.
https://www.vfgadgets.com/grip-camera/ex3-heavy-duty-base-plate-system
Olof Ekbergh
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M100 does not play XDcam codec it has to be transcoded, I use ProresHQ.
Or you can digitize to 720p 50 in M100.
Olof Ekbergh
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I use these guys to do it for me it is really quite reasonable, and saves me a lot of work.
Olof Ekbergh
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I have an EX3, and I have or owned or used more than a dozen other vid cams, and I have never seen a white balance shift with ND filters. Even the screw in or 4×4 (/6) type.
Is this a brand new camera.
Olof Ekbergh
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I have the Glidecam 12′ jib, I have had it now for 6 years I think. I used to use it with DSR500, it was definitely maxed out with that cam especially with a few accessories. It always got great shots with the 500, I was just always worried about the weight.
It works great with the EX3.
All these type of jibs/cranes can be worked a few different ways. You can run it from the camera manually with your liquid head. Or you can run it from the opposite end this is easier for large elevation changes, but then you need a monitor and preferably an extension cord and a remote controller (rec/zoom). And if you want a lot of control a tilt pan head (way more money than the jib.
I do most of my shots from the opposite end with a monitor and a remote controller. It takes some practice but you can get really great shots, you dont really have to move that much for a very dramatic effect.
Depending on the angle to the arm you can get very different style shots (dolly l/r or in/out or halfway in between). Tilt / pan is nice but you dont really need it most of the time. You can do that when operating from the camera end, it is just harder to be smooth with big moves around a set and actors. Remote focus is nice too but also costly.
Olof Ekbergh
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This is from an old post back in January https://forums.creativecow.net/readpost/142/862377
I use FW 800 drives for archive storage of projects files and footage (2 sets) in a different building. This is for quick reloading onto RAID and BU of current large projects (we have some that we have been working on for years).
All non tape footage is burned to DVD single layer, dual layer or Blueray depending on how much footage there is (4.3, 8, 23 or 46GB). I see this as my “tape” library, we also have hundreds if not a thousand or so Beta, DVcam, DVCpro, and even MiniDV and HDV tapes stored in the same climate stable room. Most of them (OK less than half) are also in Databases for searching. But all new solid state footage goes in the DB.
Screen shot of DB:
Olof Ekbergh
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We use the new Macbook pro’s (unibody) 2.55GHZ 4GBram. It has the Xpress 34 slot the SxS cards fit in built right in.
FCP Studio 2 update to 6.0.5.
Any FW 800 works really well, we use both Lacie rugged and WD drives.
We have 2 of these and they work really well.
It also works fine on a 2.4 GHZ MBP previous generation.
Olof Ekbergh
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I use an EX3 and I just transfer from the cards (I use a MBP for transfer to a FW800 drive), this way TC comes with the clips and it is 6x or more than real time. I the use FCP (hook the FW800 drive to the M100 system), it plays the clips real time through my AJA you can even super the TC in real time on screen. There is no loss of quality and files are way smaller than ProresHQ.
This is the beauty of NoTape production.
Once I have picked my shots I then transfer to M100 and transcode to ProResHQ, I find this a very fast workflow.
M100 still blows FCP for editing out of the water. It will be great when you can play XDcam codec in M100.
Olof Ekbergh
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Graduated ND filters are great to have as well.
I also use Tiffen graduated sunset filters for great effect. There are also a lot of other Blue to clear etc graduated filters available. Cavision makes really good value matteboxes, but use Tiffen or better filters.
A mattebox and 4×4 or 4×6 filters work best, the mattebox also really helps to keep sun off lens when sun is low. You can really tune graduated filters up/down L/R and angle them.
I really love to play with a mattebox and a set of graduated filters around sunset/sunrise. It is easy to overdo it though. Some of those effects can be done in post as well, you can build your own graduated filters in PSD and change them over time even.
Olof Ekbergh