Forum Replies Created

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  • Noah Kadner

    February 1, 2006 at 11:18 pm in reply to: QT 7 Pro

    No it doesn’t. You’d need to purchase a new key. The Motion 2 upgrade is $99+$30 for QTPro. Or you can get the whole studio including Motion 2 and QT Pro for only $199 if you have FCP already. How about it:

    https://www.apple.com/universal/crossgrade/

    Noah

  • That works too.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    February 1, 2006 at 12:58 am in reply to: Missing Motion Particle Emitters, Shapes and Replicators

    Reinstall from the original store bought CD and you should be ok.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    February 1, 2006 at 12:57 am in reply to: Motion 2 on an Avid Unity?

    Sure- use the proper specs- like frame rate, resolution and compatible codecs- i.e. Animation or uncompressed and you should be ok.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    January 30, 2006 at 11:04 pm in reply to: 16:9 adaptor

    It is pretty much what you see is what you get- make sure you take time setting it up on a monitor. The only thing most folks have trouble with is removing it. Here’s way more info:

    Panasonic Anamorphic Adapter LA-7200G
    By
    Barry Green
    Fiercely Independent Films, Inc.
    (AKA ICExpo)

    The LA-7200G is an anamorphic adapter for the AG-DVX100 camera, that attaches to the front of your camera’s lens. It optically “squeezes” the camera’s image so that it becomes 16:9. Having this adapter on your camera gives you effectively a native 16:9 camcorder.

    How does it work?
    The anamorphic adapter uses “bent glass” to squeeze a 33% wider picture onto your camera’s CCD. There is no change in the vertical size of the picture, but on the horizontal axis there is 33% more image. You get a dramatically wider picture, and one that allows you to make 16:9 DVD’s, or uprez to HD or transfer to film with higher quality.

    What’s the difference between the anamorphic adapter and using “letterbox” mode?
    Both are ways to get an image that looks like 16:9. Letterbox Mode shoots 4:3 video and simply puts black bars on the top and bottom of your image. If you’re playing back on a 4:3 device (like a conventional television) then Letterbox mode will give you what looks like letterboxed video. Also, because much of the picture is covered with black bars, you end up with only about 360 lines of available resolution (in NTSC mode).

    The anamorphic adapter actually changes the shape of the video, making it appropriate for widescreen televisions. If you play back anamorphic footage on a 16:9 widescreen television, it’ll look “proper”. If you play back anamorphic footage on a 4:3 television, it will look “squeezed”. The anamorphic adapter also uses the full surface of the camera’s CCD, so you get widescreen video with a full 480 lines of vertical resolution (576 lines on PAL).

    How does it attach to the camera?
    The anamorphic adapter has industry-standard 72mm lens threads on it. You screw it into the front of your lens just like any filter. It can also attach to any other 72mm-lens-thread camera, such as a Canon XL1.

    Once the adapter is on your camera, you have to “square it” — make sure that it is perfectly in square with the CCD of your camera, so that the light-bending effect is working on the horizontal axis only. The way you do this is by attaching the anamorphic adapter’s white lens cap. The lens cap has a grooved square outline on it. Point the camera at a light source and zoom out to wide angle, and you’ll be able to see the grooved square. You use this square to line up the adapter. Loosen the leveling screw on the side of the adapter, and then rotate it until the square is perfectly squared-up in your viewfinder. Then firmly tighten the leveling screw.

    (note: you can also use the adapter for some wacky effects, if you purposefully rotate it during shooting — loosen that screw, and rotate that lens around, and you’ll get some wild distort-o-vision effects on your video).

    How do I remove the anamorphic adapter? It just spins and spins but won’t come off!
    This is a frequently asked question. The answer is, tighten the leveling screw VERY TIGHT before trying to unscrew the lens. If the screw is not very tight, the lens will behave as if you’re leveling it instead of trying to remove it. Tighten the screw very tightly and it’ll engage the lens threads, allowing you to unscrew and remove the adapter.

    What about filters?
    The anamorphic adapter doesn’t use screw-in filters — it has a square front and no lens threads. So you cannot use screw-in filters and the adapter at the same time. You cannot put a screw-in filter on the camera and then try to attach the anamorphic adapter to that filter either. However, the front of the anamorphic adapter is 4.25″ x 4.5″, which is big enough to fit a standard 4″ x 4″ filter in, so you could always jerry-rig a 4×4 filter into the adapter’s lens hood. There are reports that Cokin’s X-PRO filter holders can be adapted to fit the front of the anamorphic adapter, and perhaps soon matte boxes will appear that accomodate the front of the adapter.

    Can I use a wide-angle or telephoto lens in combination with the anamorphic?
    No. The anamorphic adapter precludes the ability to use other add-on lenses.

    Should I use “Letterbox” mode when using the anamorphic adapter?
    No, normally you’d use full-screen mode with the anamorphic adapter, which will result in 16:9 widescreen video. But, if you also use letterbox mode at the same time, the result will be a 2.35:1 widescreen image — the same aspect ratio as “CinemaScope.”

    How to Use the Adaptor

    By Jan Crittenden
    Panasonic Product Line Business Manager
    DVCPRO50/25, DVX100A

    Theory In The Mounting Of This Adaptor
    The threads that screw onto the lens are designed to be free floating so that the lens can be aligned for the 16:9 field of view once it has been tightened on to the front of the camera. So what one has to do is to lightly tighten the threads into place, screw the adapter on and then release the set screw so that the lens can be reoriented to the proper position. Once in place, re-tighten the set screw. To remove this adaptor, simply unscrew with the set screw fully tightened.

    To Mount:

  • Noah Kadner

    January 30, 2006 at 8:59 pm in reply to: uncompressed HD workflow question

    Use the lossless preset for that. Not sure on the 30 vs 60. That’s a question for the folks at Kona.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    January 30, 2006 at 6:16 pm in reply to: uncompressed HD workflow question

    Definitely- you will get much better performance by exporting to QT rather than importing as a MOTN file. What I do in this case is export any updates to the same QT filename, overwriting it. That way my FCP edit is automatically updated with the newer version without taking the performance hit.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    January 30, 2006 at 6:14 pm in reply to: archiving motion

    That’s a good question- hmm not sure if the original media used in the Motion project that’s not part of the FCP project will be archived too. Kinda doubt it. I’d make a manual copy of the Motion projects and their media as well to go along with the FCP archive.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    January 30, 2006 at 12:24 am in reply to: an object casts a shadow on nothing

    Sure- have a peek into the manual regarding Baking.

    Noah

  • Noah Kadner

    January 29, 2006 at 10:06 pm in reply to: HANDLE ZOOM not working

    Yes- definitely ship it. There’s no reason to drive it there because they most likely won’t fix it while you wait.

    Noah

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