Neil Moxham
Forum Replies Created
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the 4 pin is all thats needed. those carry the data.
The other 2 pins carry power. External hard drives are 6pin and can use the power off of the laptop sometimes.Macs do this.
Cameras only have 4 ( you dont want erronious power sent to the camera) which has its own any ways.
The Belkin, ADS pcmcia cards with TI chipsets in box stores most often are 6 pin.
Some have both.
DSE says you can get them for 20-30 bucks.
I know the tower cards are cheap but I think the PCMCIA are a little more.
I say get the 4 to 6 cable anyways because in the very near future you should get an external firewire harddrive.
Hook the drive to one port, The camera to the other. Tell VidCap to import to the external drive folder of choice. Then edit off of that drive.
A- its probably a faster drive.
B- keeps the OS from interrupting your dataflow.
C- when you do a final render…render back to your onboard “C”
drive. saves time. (one reads while the other writes)
this works for meVideoguys.com have a handy “12 steps to optimize XP for video”
guide that is well worth the read !!!Good luck
ZipZipedit
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I have a 8 year old toshiba laptop with onboard firewire.
512 ram
p3 1.1 gig intel processor
never drops a frame !!
If it wasnt for raw horsepower I’d still be editing with it.My thoughts lean towards a less than decent firewire chip
VIA chipsets have often been troublesome
Texas instruments chipsets have been preferred.
also there may be an IRQ sharing issue.I understand that you are a computer amateur. I can show you how to check this info
If your computer has a PCMCIA slot on the side.?? You might try going to your local staples or circuit city and get a firewire card. The Belkin ones have been good to me and offer 2 or 3 6pin outputs on them. Roughly $59. They dont require drivers. just plug it in and go.
Neil
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Jeff-
Here’s the link to the VASST celluloid filmlooks.
its free
https://www.vasst.com/product.aspx?id=86a3c0d0-67d6-4e7b-8219-d80848cbd5caIve seen some others, will post when I find them
NeilZipedit
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There are some VEG file templates out there that give a very smoothed ,washed film look. They use a combintion of settings already in Vegas to get a smooth filic look. The 24p frame rate will help with cadence but doesnt do much for a telecine (filmlike) look.
There is a free “movie-looks” plugin that is running around that has a menu of different styles from different eras that looks quite nice. It takes forever to render but the result is pretty creamy.
sorry I dont have the direct links but many others do on this forum
do a new post for them and you will get results.
I’m pleased with the filmic look we have achieved here.
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In that case I would buy a bag of plastic pearl beads and get a few yards of lavender satin. lay the satin on a bumpy curved surface . like a small skateboard ramp.(have a catch at the bottom to catch the beads cuz it will take a few takes)
get the camera close to the surface pointing up the ramp.(the upwards curve keeps the satin in view blocking the set background.
Then pour the pearls. it will look like a flowing river of pearls that twist and wind around some of the smooth bumps. Getting larger as they approach the camera. set the focus a few feet out.
this way they will be soft as the go past the camera .
Just an ideaheres a link to a similar idea we did.
https://www.findingsinc.net/video/index.htmzipedit
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Maybe buy a bag of plastic beads. cheap money.
I’m not being sarcastic. but sometimes the real thing works.
I remember spending countless hours with buddies trying to figure out this complex video problem. To get this glowing shiny red wet look on this object. Then his girlfriend pipes up…..”Just spray it with water and point a red light on it”
I had to laugh.What exactly is your application with the pearls?
Zipedit
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If the two images dont cross in front of each other then simply find a good seam and cut a mask line along it to expose the other clip underneath. this way the other shot will be there. I have done this a few times and it works well. watch your shadows though.
its more complicated and time consuming to have object cross in front of each other but its do-able in vegas.
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try a fresh VEG with a known good piece of video. Then try some generated text.
check to make sure that the “level” in the track header and master is still at 100%. if anything is slightly changed then Vegas has to re-render on the fly and that can throw your preview off.
Also make sure that the preview window is sized at 360×240
or 720 x 480. If its smaller like 180 x 120 it will get dodgy also. -
I have found that a 2 to 1 or 1to1 ratio to the video is good.
If you are not pushing (zooming) into the still then this formula works.
-resize the still in photoshop with the “image/ resize” tool.
-make sure the “lock aspect ratio” is checked.
-set the amount of horizontal 720, the other will self adjust into place.
Save as PSD or jpg
Try 1440 if you have thin lines. it helps those edges a little.Too high of a rez and those pics will jump around on you.
Good luck
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I get logo’s , pics from clients that were often meant for print.
File sizes are huge. If I put those on video they jump like mexican jumping beans.
Thin horizontal lines are chronically a problem so…-Reduce flicker on each problem slide first.
-Make sure that your pixel ratio is close to the video
–Even better is doubling the ratio.
-IE: Video is 720 x 480
– put your picture in photoshop and “image re-size”
as close to double that as possible.
1440 x 960
720 x 480 or 1 to 1 is OK but edges are crisper if doubled.
If your are doing any pushes or movement you have to account for that as well.-the very light vertical blur works too.
-Sometimes a light color shift has helped on whites.
If they are too bright (out of range) they will crunch on the edges so I shift it a little creamier, has helped sometimes.
Also try a chroma blur on medium. This softens where colors meet.Zipedit
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