Michael Sacci
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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What it is watched on it not my point. We have been watching Material shoot as progressive on interlaced TVs for years. This is not a new thing at all. Almost every VHS was originally a Progressive movie that had pulldown add to make the interlaced tapes. Most hollywood DVDs are 24p with players adding the pulldown and interlacing.
My point is that Progressive to interlace looks fine, we watch it all the time, it is not a new thing, new problem. The difference is that it doesn’t look like interlaced footage on an interlaced TV, which for most people is a good thing.
30p to 30i or 25p to 25i is a none issue IMO unless you are shooting sports or you want the video look.
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Chip, shutter speeds and frame rates are the same in the 7D, 60D and the T2i.
But the 60D shoots the cleaner ISO (160, 320, 480, 640 and so on).
I don’t have a 7D but there 60D with the manual audio and the screen make people think it might be the better camera. The 7D weatherproofing maybe a big plus for some. But I was extremely impressed with the build quality of the 60D, getting to the point where it feels like a pro camera. The one feature the 7D has over the 60D is the HDMi out but for me that doesn’t make up for the things the 60D has over the 60D.
So for me if I had the money to buy either, I would buy the 60D. In the case of the T2i I bought the T2i because I didn’t have the money to buy the 7D.
Also I have the Z-Finder Pro, I use the frames and not the guerilla plate, and it works fine, of course you cannot flip the screen protective position.
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I would guess that most things that are on TV have been shoot as Progressive. Most TV shows, most commercials. What is not is mostly sports and news.
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Totally agree best to shot “flat” with contrast, sharpness and saturation turned down. But this is in your Picture Style settings. There is presets of Neutral and Faithful that are flat looking.
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[Phil Balsdon] “It also means you can get away with only buying one filter.”
To add to that thought, I get the biggest filter thread size needed for my lenses and then step up rings for smaller lens. Example, I have 58mm thread for Canon lenses and then 52mm for Nikon primes, all the Nikons have step up rings to give them a 58mm thread ( I get new caps so the rings are always on the lenses.) so I just have the one 58mm FaderND.
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[Nelson May] “I like P2 cards, but Snow Leopard and Duel made life a headache. “
It takes 2 minutes to reboot to a HD with 10.5 installed and then your transfer is about 4 or 5 times faster than going from the camera to a computer. If you do not want to spend any money and you already have this set up I would recommend you just do it. It is the fastest/cheapest way to get P2 cards copied to a HD. Just use it.
But as for the camera to a HD, there are no menus to go through on the camera or computer, it is a simple HD to HD transfer.
The cards show up or the don’t show up. You should NEVER be going from the card in the camera to FCP Log and Transfer, or even the card anywhere to L&T, you should simple be doing a copy. Of course there are better ways with apps to copy the files but a finder copying should work fine. Since there is no real work being done by the computer using a MBP or a MacPro doesn’t make any difference in speed. Using the camera does, and not in the good way.
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A 7D is no where near the quality of a RED, now I don’t shot with the RED but lets be honest, the RED is far better camera for quality, that doesn’t mean the 7D is fine and in some cases better for a curtain job. But both require a lot of other gear to make them work, for RED you are probably looking at spending $30-50K average and the 7D average is probably $4-5K for a system.
Then you talk about getting a $500 camera that isn’t even close to prosumer.
But starting the discussion with “what camera should I buy” is putting the cart before the horse.
What do you plan to shoot? What is your budget? What is your skill level (or your commitment to learn)? -
To clear things up a bit the ND doesn’t give you shallow DoF, a large aperture it the main way to get it. The ND helps you control the exposure. If you are outside there is no way to open up the aperture way the way and reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor with video. With still you can raise the shutter speed to 1/2000 or more of a second but you don’t have that option in video.
But I think there are 2 must haves for shooting video on a DSLR (especially for outside), one is a Viewfinder for the LCD and a FaderND filter. The FaderND is a not only great for getting the shallow DOF it is the best way to speed up general exposure control, I won’t go outside without one. It is the way I “iris” up and down when shooting.
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I you don’t have FCP you don’t have a way to transcode your clips to ProRes. FCE is so limited with what codecs you cannot use I would never recommend it. You get so much more with FCS.
I think you have to convert the clips to AIC and work with that. It is not a bad codec just not as good as ProRes.
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DVD is 720×480, yes it is the pixel count. How are you watching the DVD.
In Photoshop you need to start with video>NTSC > widescreen image. Pixel correction turned on. The problem with just making a 720z480 in PS is that uses square pixels and video is rectangular. WS is 1.2 (wider than tall) Reg is .9 (taller than wide).