Michael Sacci
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Yeah you have to get it out of that codec before you begin editing it. A lot of the problem is how old your software is.
I would use compressor to convert the movies into DVCProHD, keep it the same frame 1080 or 720 and frame rate as you shoot it. DVCProHD conversion with compressor should be but you need to off load the footage to your HD and then run it through compressor and then edit.
If you upgrade to FCP 6 or 7 (you can still find 6 around if you are on a non-Intel system)
There is Canon software for the 5D and 7D that gets installed in FCP to use Log and Transfer but it does work out of the gate with the T2i. BUt there is an easy fit for that.I am not a program guy at all and I was able to do it without a problem takes a couple of minutes at the most. The key is when you open up the file it cannot be in a work processor or text edit. You need a something like BB Edit or Text Wrangler.
You can get the FCP plug in at – https://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=19356#DownloadDetailAct
I would go to ProRes (not HQ). THis is set in the prefs of Log and Transfer.
There is also a new product by Red Giant call Grinder. I don’t have that but they are a 1st rate company. https://www.redgiantsoftware.com/products/all/magic-bullet-grinder/
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Review done. Once again great book.
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I think the toughest thing for stills people going to video is having your shutter speed locked down. for 24fps you need it at 50 (can get away with 60 or 30) so when you go outside your hands are really tied if you want to reduce your DoF. That is why a ND filter is a must for outdoor shooting of video.
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I don’t have Noah’s DVD on DLSR but I have other ones and they are top notch. You should take a look at his. There is a book/DVD called From Still to Motion that I just got and liking it a lot.
It is well worth have a 50 1.4 or 1.8 in your bag, nothing else is that fast and reasonably priced. Then in general you want fixed f-stops zooms or primes that are at least 2.8 at the widest setting.
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Don’t get discouraged. You can buy a lot with $2400, it is that you just probably buy everything you need. It was the same as when everyone was buying $17K cameras, I bet the average cost of a finished system is more like 40-50K.
ON the steadicam I wasn’t trying to talk you out of it but to talk you into practicing, A LOT, which it sounds like it is your plan. While a bad steadicam operator can hurt a production big time, a great steadicam operator can give you the most bang for the buck.
There are more and more good options for accessories coming out all the time but tighter budgets mean more research.
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Sorry scale is within basic motion. Those are the only 2 things you needed to remove to solve your timeline issue.
If you are not viewing the video on an external monitor you are not really seeing what you have. Forcing the canvas to 100% give a more accurate display of the footage but you have to view it externally to judge quality. But your footage is what it is. You are now using the footage as it is captured.
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only answer that can be stated without being there is shutter, for 24p you what 50fps, can bump it to 60 or down to 40 to help but the others will balance out your exposure. Lower ISO will give your better color and less noise. Aperture balances the exposure out but also gives you the control over the looks (the amount of depth of field.)
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a volt meter
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The biggest difference is the chip, a little better in lower light and a bit sharper. Nothing as far as scene files.
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Make a new sequence that matches your clip. If you are using FCP6 or 7 all you need to do is drag one clip to the timeline and it will ask you if you want to change the seq setting. You say yes.
Then do to the edited timeline, select all, paste this into the new and correct sequence. Things will look wrong. with everything still selected right click and do to Remove Attributes, then check scale and distort (if distort is not grayed out). This should get you back to the correct looking footage.