Michael Johnston
Forum Replies Created
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Windows Movie Maker? Really? Sounds like a gig where I’d have to say “thanks but no thanks”. If he’s editing on that then I doubt he has the money to pay for the time you’ll spend dealing with converting the footage.
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I’ve used a wide variety of on-cam LED’s and, so far, NOTHING beats the HDV-Z96. Bright, wide throw, dimmable, magnetic diffusers, and can quickly detach and mount to a light stand for offset lighting. Several lights can also be quickly mounted together. Do a youtube search for this light for examples. You can get them for about $65 on eBay. I keep one in the case with my NX5U.
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Steve,
I’m really surprised at how you’re buying cams and returning them. B&H is not going to continue letting you do this. You’re expecting way too much out of cameras in this price range. You seem to expect a $3k camera to perform like a $40k camera. That’s not going to happen. You get what you pay for. I mean, what are you expecting from a single chip cam like the NX70? It sounds like you need to go all in and spend $50k for a camera that performs the way you want or stop complaining and live with the shortcomings of the cheaper cams.
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For news or anything where I won’t be messing with the image in post, I shoot in FH mode on my NX5. If it’s a high end shoot with corrections in post, I shoot at the highest quality possible.
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Expanded focus only applies to manual focus. Auto focus is the computer “guessing” on focus and is never as sharp as you can get in manual. Auto also only focuses what’s in the middle of the screen and sees vertical lines, meaning most subjects will be soft because auto tends to focus for the background. Most auto modes for all newer cameras works this way. Auto focus should be avoided whenever possible.
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This is a common problem with most NX5U’s that Sony doesn’t seem able to fix. It is a back focus problem. Like you, I either zoom in, critical, then zoom out and tweak or I don’t zoom in at all and just use the Expanded Focus to manually focus while staying wide. It’s a real pain in the rear but one I’ll live with because all of the other features on this camera make it a favorite of mine to work with.
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If gain and iris are manual but you are having problems, most likely your shutter is set to auto, meaning it’s cranking up to compensate. Make sure EVERYTHING is set to manual.
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Rule of thumb with these cameras: NEVER iris below F5.6…..EVER!!!! Stick to that rule and you can go as high as 3db without getting grain. As far as what’s happening to you, I have no clue without physically looking at your camera.
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Rode NTG2 shotgun ($269) hardwired via XLR cable. Pro audio without spending $500 for a shotgun. If you must have wireless, you’re going to spend a minimum of $600 for something decent.
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The built-in ND filter. Set it to 1.