Matthew Romanis
Forum Replies Created
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It works well, with some practice it can achieve stedicam-like results.
I use a monopod too at times, though I must say the results with a monopod are less like “handheld” and more like “float on a tripod”.
The monopod is good for quick relocates and “float” style shooting. For lateral hand held movement with simple stabilization the easy rig is good tool. -
Check with your rental house if they have an Easy Rig.
Very useful on jobs when you have lots of varying handheld camerawork.
Can be used on the shoulder and from various hand held positions comfortably while transferring the cameras weight to your hips rather than just you arms an shoulder.(https://www.easyrig.se/) -
The basic fundamentals of hand held apply to any camera.
Balance is the key to stability, technique makes the difference between average and great.
The AF 102 is not a well balanced camera, so use what you can to achieve better balance.
Shoulder mounts will help, but throw balance off when you go from your shoulder to hand held.
The lack of IS just means your technique has to be good.
It’s not impossible, you just have to work harder at it. -
I’m a recent convert and fan of the Sonnet QIO.
It uses a PCIe Express34 card for use with my laptop.
I like the QIO because it’s card format agnostic. I can use it with SxS, SD, P2, and CF. The only speed throttle is the relatively slow offload speeds offered up via the P2 cards in comparison to other card formats.
It allows me to expand my FW bus and use USB 3.0 drives with my Mac laptop via Sonnet’s express card adapters.
Shooting with RED is a breeze to deal with to due to the 4 eSata ports that allow me to connect RED station to multiple eSata drives. Offload speeds are great.
The downside is it looks a bit messy with all the cables sprouting everywhere, and you have to mindful of connection routines. -
Yes there is, but as I mentioned, there is no coarse control like on an EX 3 or such.
Set it to one of your “easy to get to” user buttons so you can toggle it on and off at will. It does get in the way sometimes. -
Yep, there is a peaking mode (called focus assist in the user button menus), though it has no coarse adjustment. On or Off are the choices. The AF !00 also has an EVF Detail mode that is useful sometimes in conjunction with FA, it’s a button next to the audio select buttons where the LCD folds away.
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The Olympus 14-25 f2 is excellent. The doubler for this lens is useful but you loose two stops.
Don’t forget to look at some of the fast 3rd party primes such as Tokina, and Sigma. Some people may suggest that these lens’s are soft at the edges or vignette, but due to the AF 102 2x crop, this is rarely an issue. The sensor is using just the center of the glass, not the edges. -
Based on the info provided, it sounds feasible.
Whether it’s heat affecting the panel itself, or just the processing module, needs to be checked out. -
UPDATE,
We bought the Sigma 20 f1.8, Sigma 30 f1.4, Sigma 50mm f1.4, and 85mm f1.4 with Nikon mounts.
The 50mm is very impressive, as is the 85mm, yet to have a good test with the 20mm and the 30mm.
None of the these shift the front element when focusing, or extend the barrel, which makes life with the mattebox easier. I have been using the Zeiss ZP.1 glass recently, and while good glass, the breathing barrel drove me bonkers with the mattebox.
I have read reviews where there was concern with the Sigma’s sharpness above f2.8, and while this might be a concern with full frame 35mm, the glass is very clean on the 4/3rds sensor, and I have seen none of the vignetting or soft corners that were a concern with the reviews. This is obviously down to the 2x crop factor working in my favour for once!!
Bokeh is very nice, but the lens focus ring is a bit stiff compared to the Zeiss, a smaller .8 wheel on the follow focus should address this issue, though it’s not much of a concern.
The 20mm has a manual focus ring, while the rest are controlled with the Novoflex Nikon to 4/3rds adapter ring. -
We purchased the Olympus Zukio 14mm-35mm F2 lens with the Olympus doubler as an everyday utilty lens.
We are looking for suitable f1.7 – 0.9 primes in the 20-25mm, 30-35mm, 50mm, 85mm range to offer more of what the camera is capable of.
Any of these cheaper photographic zoom lenses do have restrictions such as aperture shift when zooming, noise from the aperture shift, no servo.
I use a varying combination of fader ND, filter wheels, and ISO setting to always keep the lens at F2.
When working with this camera, everything is slower. It takes longer to set a shot and shoot it than it does with a standard video style camera, so if you believe you can work with the operational differences this camera brings, then go for it.
But remember, one lens alone will never be enough or suitable for this camera.
Matthew.