Lars Wikstrom
Forum Replies Created
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You don’t what to use iDVD because you are not making a DVD video disc. I use Toast and I burn the 2 files that come off of the P2 card the Contents folder and the ever important LASTCLIP.TXT
With that on disc you can import right from it as well. It costs me about 6 cents per Gig doing it this way but you end up with lots of discs. Again I store them in large 300 disc folders.
-Lars
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I use good old dvd’s. I shoot with 4 gig cards and each card fits snuggly on a disc. I use binders of 300 to store them in and it works just fine. I have never had a disc go bad but I am sure it can happen.
I purchase the Taiyo Yuden 8X DVD-R and get 200 at a time which breaks down to 25 cents per disc. These are as good as the Apple discs I use to buy, high quality but much cheaper.
-Lars
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I would say the samething I always say “Delete Last Clip” button. The camera already has a button that lets you view the last few seconds of the clip which I find totaly useless. Better to convert that into the button that deletes the last clip you shot. Much more usefull.
As for as the filp feature for 35mm lens adaptors Before I got my RedRockMicro M2 I was for the filp. Now it won’t matter. The LCD on the HVX is so low quality that you have to use the Focus Assist button to make sure you are in focus. I need to use it for everyshot I take because it is hard to tell with the lens focus and the back focus.
The best thing to do is to invest in a 7″ Marshal HD monitor that has the component ins and use the cable that comes with the camera. Then just turn that monitor upside down and problem is fixed.
Using the a flipped version of one of these 35mm adaptors means more light loss since you need more glass. With the M2 you loss about 1/2 to 1 stop of light. I read with the other you loose between 1 and 2 stops. Once you shoot inside you’ll what I mean. I bout a 50mm f1.4 just because I needed more more light for shooting inside.
The quality is amazing. The HVX gives you the Mechanics of shooting in 24p but the lens give you the softer organic and depth of a film camera.
-Lars
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Ya I thought I could handhold a few shots myself and you can. But the one thing that I was always fighting is the depth of feild. Depending on your setting and lights you DOF can be a foot or so. Also for every shot check the focus sith the focus assist.
The next thing on my to buy list is a 7″ marshal HD minitor, about $1400 but should allow for better focusing.
Here is a 6 minute video that I am finishing up. Shot in 720 24PN with Nikon lenses with the M2 RedRock Micro. I used Magic Bullet Editors to color many of the shots.
https://nextlevelpro.biz/flicks/Casa3.mov
-Lars
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I can only comment on the Red Rock Micro and I love that adaptor. Using it as a handheld is not a good idea since it is heavy and hard to hold.
There is a slight audio noise that comes from the motor in side but is so quiet that you don’t hear in on camera. You will lose light going through all the glass. I bought mine with the Nikon lens mounts and it this snap shot was shot using the Nikon 50mm f1.4 prime lens
https://nextlevelpro.biz/images/Casa_Still.jpg
When I got the adaptor I bought the after market lens that was 19-35mm F3.5 The lens is OK but with the f3.5 I can’t shoot with it inside. I have 2 500-watt lights and it’s not enough to shoot inside with that lens, which is why I bought the faster f1.4.
I have 2 other lenses 35-70 f2.8 this is a good lens but it has the push pull zoom instead of a ring that you can turn so it is hard to do smooth zooms. I also just picked up the 80-200 f2.8, which has a ring, zoom and is very nice.
So advice that I would give from my experience so far is.
1. Make sure you always keep the lenses clean. There are 7 different lenses that can get dust and hairs on them using this set up
2. Don’t use lenses that are slower the f2.8 unless you shoot outside.
3. Turn the Zoom on the camera from auto to manual so you don’t hit the zoom button on accident.
4. Watch your back focus on the camera because it can be easy to move and just a slight movement will cause a softer focus. And you will need to use the focus assist on the camera to focus on the grain of the mirror for back focus.
Besides that I love the Red Rock and I picked that one because of the articles I read about how little light it looses compared to the other lens adaptors out there.
Good Luck.
-Lars
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Interesting. So you add the velcro to the bottom of the housing where the battery sits. I’ll have to try that.
-Lars
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Please corect me if I am wrong but Ambient Occlution only comes with Advanced Render modual. I don’t think it comes with the basic version of C4d.
-Lars
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Ever since I heard this was becoming a problem I have been very careful to insert and remove the battery. I read in a post a while back that Panasonic has addressed this problem for the next version of the camera. Before my warrenty runs out can a person take the camera in to have these modifications done?
-Lars
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I’m getting a clear picture now, thanks. So even people who create their own QT plug-ins like the one I use ‘Microcosom” They have to pay a fee to Apple for doing that? People can’t just create their plug-ins?
-Lars
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Well ya, kind of half joking. I know that Panasonic owns DVCpro codec and this has come up before. I am not a programmer but I use a codec called Microcosom which is a 64 bit lossless codec that makes files about 1/3 the size of the Animation codec. It works on Mac and PC and you just drop it into the QT plug’s folder and away you go.
I guess the question is why can’t Panasonic just create that? Is it because it comes from the MXF format? QT can’t read MXF format, it needs to be converted to QT first. So I would guess there is a QT DVCpro QT codec(not 100% sure about that). It seems that if they can get DVCpro to work with QT in OS X then it should be able to work with QT on a PC.
I don’t know all the politics to this but there must be a good reason, I just don’t know it?
-Lars