Justin Strauber
Forum Replies Created
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0 VU in a digital world is typically around -20dbfs. So, working as intended.
Jack up the input levels on your streamer rather than on the output of your board, you should have less of a problem with overmodulation and get the ‘loudness’ you’re looking for.
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Exactly what mixer are you using? Usually mixers with stereo inputs like that are balanced TRS.
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You need to use one of the blackmagic presets when you create a timeline in order for the intensity to playback from it. The source window will play through the intensity regardless of the timeline.
There may be a way to change the timeline settings directly, but I usually just copy all of the non-blackmagic timeline into the new one.
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There are adapters, but if I recall, it may be cheaper to get a new computer! A PCIe extender would be what you need, I know I’ve seen a few in the past, and last I looked ran around the $1K range.
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As far as I can tell from the connection diagrams, the only ‘stereo’ input would be the AES inputs, which carry two channels as one digital line. All of the analog inputs are meant to be mono, TRS balanced inputs, not stereo.
You currently have things connected properly, L to input 1, R to input 2
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Just to update the thread, 2.7 released a few days ago added crosspoint mapping.
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You will most likely not be able to use that combination of devices. The recorder you’re using only records in HD formats (720/1080), and will not accept an SD input, to my knowledge.
You would need something like an UpDownCross converter, or FS1 in order to use the analog to SDI adapter.
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Speaking from a 1 M/E standpoint, I’ve been able to use the ‘Pro’ Panasonic cameras (AG-HMC150PJ / AG-HMC80PJ), as well as a Sony consumer HD camera with no problem. With the Sony, I’ve only used a 1m microHDMI/HDMI cable, with the Panasonics, they’re unstable over 25ft in 1080i.
I’ve been fairly successful with HDMI extenders from Monoprice. They have one for $40 that will do 190ft over Cat6. I did get one DOA, and am about to start the return process, but the other two have worked flawlessly.
I have noticed, in addition, that the Panasonics have three output options: Auto, Fix, 480. The latter is a downconvert, the first two will work with the ATEMs in HD mode. However, the camera can get confused on AUTO if the ATEM doesn’t feel like reporting its true resolution. If you can do any sort of ‘fixed’ output resolution that matches the mode your ATEM is in, it only takes a second or two for the initial sync after connection.