Justin Ferar
Forum Replies Created
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When you made the recording on the Sony deck I bet you recorded as DVCAM, which consumer camcorders won’t play back. You can go back and set the DSR-40 to record as regular DV if you go through the menus.
Did you use a DVCAM mini DV or just a regular one. If you used a regular one then I’m stumped becuase I thought the DSR-40 would know whether or not it had a DVCAM tape in it. Maybe it still can record DVCAM on a regular mini DV- I haven’t tried this.
Let us know what the result it.
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The way I see it- the cameras are already built and do what they are supposed to do and don’t need to be upgraded and supported the same way computers do for example. The great thing is that they have a mini-dv transport which will never be obsolete.
They are still the best bang for the buck.
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Also,
If you get a 110 then you can use prosumer batteries to power the cam.
The 200 requires pro batteries so you if you dont already own an AB or IDX system then you would need to get one.
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Hi Matt,
As with any pro camera, there really is nothing provided to power the camera out of the box because most pro’s have invested thousands of dollars into either Anton Bauer, PAG, or IDX battery systems. They would take the camera and add a compatible plate to use their own battery system.
BTW- the 200 comes with no battery at all so your rep was talking about the 110.
Justin.
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Now that you’ve gone out and bought a pro camera it’s time to learn about pro lenses.
First- there is no auto focus on professional manual lenses like yours. This is a goodn thing! A very good thing as you will discover once you get used to it.
Second- your camera’s “back focus” or “flange back” needs to be adjusted which is a fairly simple process. You should get in the habit of making the adjustment before every shoot. As it will come out of alignment as it’s moved from different temperature zones.
Hook the camera up to a monitor (HD if you have one).
Zoom in on an object at least 3 meters away. Focus nice & sharp.
Zoom out all the way and loosen the little nut on the lens that is closest to the camera body. This is your flange back ring. Adjust the ring until the image is sharp. Tighten the nut so it’s firm. Zoom back in the object and if it’s sharp then you are done. If it’s not sharp then repeat the process until you get it right.
Don’t try to do this with the viewfinder- you kick yourself later.
I find that the easiest way to make the adjustment is at night. Use someones porchlight or a streetlamp as your focus object. Easy Peasy.
Hope this helps.
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If you shoot HDV at 720p24 your file sizes will actually be slighlty smaller than DV so file size shouldn’t be a deterent. The main thing is to have fast processors to edit HDV.
I just think that if you really intend to finish in 24p you should shoot in 24p. Converting 60i to 24p produces strange artifacting in my experience with Magic Bullet. It can be done but you really need to shoot carefully, knowing what works and what doesn’t.
Anyway, when you say that you were expecting better looking video at 24p SD what was the problem? The motion quality or the image quality? Personally I have not used the camera to shoot SD yet so I can’t really draw any conclusions or give much advice there. It’s pretty comon knowledge that even if your final delivery is SD- it is better to shoot and edit in HD, then encode a standard def DVD or convert to whatever SD format you need if you are outputting to tape.
Hope this helps.
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The firewire port simply transfers the information from the tape. It does NOT get cross/downconverted. Only composite, component, and Y/C output is downconverted from a 720p tape. Maybe HDMI though I’ll have to look into that.
Chris- have you actually digitized 720p as 480i via firewire? I’m 99 percent sure this is not possible.
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Just a bit confused here.
If you will be converting to 24p later why not just shoot in 24p?
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We were planning on purchasing two DR-HD100’s when 720p60 quicktime is supported.
Until then we will just capture tape as DVC Pro HD via HDMI (from the HD50 deck) with the Decklink HD studio card.
If you need 720p60 today you might consider the Decklink card.
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As I understand it you should be able to shoot Quicktime files at 720p24, 720p25, and 720p30 with this update (with the 200/250).
It is widely understood that 720p60 and 720p50 will not work until FCP supports them via firewire which makes sense.
Is this not the case?