Jordan Wolf
Forum Replies Created
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It’s the differences in phase that helps differentiate one channel from the other – thus making it stereo.
Wolf
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Download Sennheiser’s IM Prevention software to help see where the pronlem frequencies will be. Also, make sure to use their Frequency Finder to pick appropriate and open RF for the area.
Wolf
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Oh, and make sure to use the correct microphone for the job. Indoors – stick with a hypercardioid pattern; outdoors – a shotgun with a windscreen and/or dead cat. Keep the mic as close to being in frame as possible and have the talent speak clearly and loudly.
Wolf
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Definitely the second option. Keep the interviewees in a straight line and have the boom op switch between them.
Wolf
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Audio-Technica 3035 – $200 or less, check Ebay.
Presonus TubePre – $100 or less, check Ebay
3′ XLR(F)-1/8″ cable – $10? Use this for patching the preamp’s output into the computer.
Pop Filter – $15-$20
Wolf
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The 3-2 prong adapter should be used for 2 things and that’s it:
1. It’s original purpose (adapting a 3-prong plug to fit into a 2-prong outlet while bonding the adapter to the outlet via the faceplate screw).AND
2. As a way to find which outlet(s) are causing hum in your system. It should only be a plug/unplug test, never permanent in any way. Unplug the Device Under Test (DUT) and add the adapter; plug it back in – if the hum goes away or is lessened, you have found a culprit; take the adapter off and fix/workaround the problem (noisy ground) and stop trying to solve the symptom (hum).
(Made generic for everyone, not specific to you, Bob)
I always meter my power before I hook into it – that way I can see if everything is hunky-dory. I agree with Brian – you could get electrocuted if you test the outlet ONLY using the above method. It would make you a responsible and valuable asset to any crew to know what you’re doing around power. Be careful and keep on looking for solutions!
Wolf
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I have used, with much success, the ProCo IT-1. It’s passive and accepts a number of pro connector types.
The problem of ground loops (usually) comes with having more than one ground that all your gear is tied to. This can be avoided by making sure any gear you use is plugged into the same circuit and that catering, lighting, etc. gear is NOT anywhere near or in any way connected to your gear.
And, just because it needs to be said: NEVER, EVER lift the AC ground on any of your gear (if it even plugs in). Use the 3-2 prong adapters for troubleshoot and find out where the grounding issue is. From there, use Pin-1 Lifts to deal with the issue.
Wolf
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I have firsthand experience with the Zoom H4n (the newer one) and it was really great for getting sound effects and recording music, etc. I would not recommend it strictly for recording audio for film/video simply because that is something that you should really have purpose-built gear for.
I’m sure others have recommendations, but I would look into Sound Devices eventually.
Wolf
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That is a good picture…I should look into those sometime 🙂
As far as “noise canceling” goes, that is an active technique which is employed by some headphone manufacturers. Earphones/canalphones passively attenuate the sound by acting like earplugs – though at times you will still hear low frequencies through bone conduction.
Wolf
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I own and have used my Shure E3 (now rebadged as the SCL3) earphones as on-location monitors. They worked nicely for isolating me from the environment, but didn’t sound as natural as over-the-ear headphones.
The frequency response on them is perfectly fine for monitoring – that is their intended purpose, after all. It’s been a while, but I’ve swept them from 20Hz-20kHz and the response picked up somewhere from 40Hz and extended all the way to 20kHz. I won’t say their response is flat, but neither is that of the Sony MDR-7506.
I bought my original pair for $180 a couple of years ago; I bought another pair a little over half-a-year ago, and they were around $60 ONLY because they were white and not gray in color. They are exactly the same, just a different color.
As with all in-ear monitoring solutions, the better the seal, the more bass response you will get. I tend to use the silicone, flanged “earmolds” for regular use since they are easier to take in/out, but I use the yellow foamies when I need a really good seal.
You can get custom molds made for them – which would both improve the seal AND the comfort of wearing them for hours on end – but if you’re going that route, it would be best to break the bank and get a $900 pair of Futuresonics.
I say get a pair of the SCL3’s in white (which equals cheaper cost) and try them out for at LEAST 1 week straight. Your ears will need to adjust a little bit. If you find they aren’t adequate for monitoring audio for video, at least you’ll have a nice pair of earphones for your personal music player.
Keep on exploring@
Wolf
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