Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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I love this link:
https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/
Click on the “lenses” link on the right when the page loads. There are a slew of great recommendations. Nikon primes are at the top of the list and he has a link to really inexpensive lens adapters for about any lens to camera conversion. If you are shooting video, you want lenses made for video or film (not necessarily photo), but many lenses have been used for years on old Mitchell 35mm film cameras (anyone remember the “Fries” Arriflex/BNCR/Panavision/Nikon conversion?) and have long been noted for their optical quality. One of the great things about these new DSLRs for video is you can draw from over a century of cinematography rather than having to re-invent the wheel.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
It won’t do it in-camera, but you can most definitely shoot against a greenscreen and do your chroma key in your NLE. Basically, shoot at the max possible quality. Check this video out:
https://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki
At about 5:40, they discuss using MagicLantern (5D only for now) to get the best possible key for a greenscreen. Pretty basic tutorial.
I love it when people say I can’t do it. People have told me never to use a DVX-100 for green screen. Yet, I am able to pull a great matte from my footage (even though I’m done with tape). I’ve pulled great mattes from consumer cameras. Here’s the truth of the matter: if you are willing to take the necessary steps to maintain the quality (you aren’t just looking for a quick fix), you can do anything. Same basic caveats apply for general green screening and for DSLR video. There are limitations, but they are not roadblocks.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hi there, this reference is by no means complete, but it will give you a good primer for which lenses you can use. I like to troll rummage sales and craigslist for lenses and then I make them work with an adapter. I like to goof around with image though, too.
https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/#Lenses
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
My camera guy was saying something about it, but seemed to think it would work. I’m thinking maybe a 1/30 shutter should be good for the next time. It was awfully low light after all.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Yeah, after your post, I looked at mine – we shot at 1/50. Answers my question. I’ll know better next time. Thanks!
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I like to shoot flat when I shoot because Canons tend to saturate colors. For quick-release videos, it’s fine, but for my shorts and film work, I shoot flat.
Check this out: https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/#Picture%20Style%20Editor
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hi there, I always think of transcoding as up-rezzing. I’m not necessarily improving my footage, but I’m getting the advantages of a more versatile format. The 7D basically shoots using h.264 in an MPEG 4 wrapper, BUT this is not a good editing or rendering format whereas Apple’s ProRes is. Also, because it’s MPEG, it’s lossy. You want out of a lossy format during editing. The people I know who use Vegas prefer to transcode to AVI (lossless) – you can use MPEG Streamclip for this (https://www.squared5.com/). I use it on my Mac for a quick convert to ProRes.
Forgot one thing: ProRes uses a 422 color space while the files from the 7D are 420. This basically means you are getting some extra color potential in a broader format. It doesn’t add color, but it broadens your range in the edit.
I’m going through a bunch of 7D footage from this weekend right now – a zombie short comedy we’ve been working on. I’m always so completely in love with the footage from the 7D. It’s just so darn pretty! 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Do you, or anyone else, know the time limit (generally, I know there’s several factors that can contribute) before you start seeing heat issues? Anyone have a way to reduce heat quickly without damaging vital electronics?
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Do you have access to a full manual lens? Just to eliminate the sensor from the possible problems.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I agree. DSLRs are very new and there are many unknowns. The only thing I worry about with freezer packs is condensation IN the camera (not just outside, but inside). I live in Arizona so there isn’t much condensation unless it’s humid (gets up to 30% in the summer at 115 degrees F), but there might be with wetter areas. I wonder what you could do with a simple aluminum heat sink to simply draw heat away from the body? If the sensor is overheating, maybe a heat-sink lens mount? Now I’m thinking fan-cooled heat sink… truly uncharted territory. 😉
Let us know how the freezer packs work out.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293