Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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I’ve worked with both the 7D and T2i (I have the T2i tho). I find the 7D doesn’t overheat as quickly and the lowlight is a touch better. On the other hand, I seldom shoot in lowlight and I don’t overheat that often either so it’s a wash for me. If you’re new to DSLR video, you really can’t go wrong with the T2i. I almost cried when I got mine in the mail and ran it through it’s paces the first couple days. It was like getting my first test footage back from my first 16mm camera only I didn’t have to wait a week. Now I have to get an HD monitor.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
24p is fine in compressor. What you want to do is use one of the default DVD compression schemes, but make some changes: change to NTSC widescreen so you maintain your 16×9 – DVD players will see the non-square pixel ratio and auto-expand or auto-letterbox for 4×3 TVs. I’m assuming you are using 16×9 footage. It’s basically still 720×480, but the non-square pixels let you pack in an anamorphic setup. The discs seem to burn fine.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I’m using the t2i too. The 18-55 default lens is so-so. The big thing is you can’t do a zoom while shooting – the aperture clamps down mid zoom. We’ve opted instead for prime lenses (Nikon mostly) which you can buy fairly cheap online. We picked up a 35, 50, and 85mm. I recommend a 24 or 18mm prime, too. Check here for loads of helpful DSLR info:
https://nofilmschool.com/dslr/
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Shooting out in the arid desert gives us the same issues. While shooting outdoors at a brisk 95 degrees, we got shut down every 20-30 minutes. We wound up holding the camera in the stream of a car’s A/C – seems to work best by pointing the air just to the left of center (as you’re looking at the front of the camera) and taking the lens off and putting the cap on the body. I don’t know what having the lens on does differently, but it seemed faster by a few minutes. Maybe the lens heats up, too. I’ll try removing the card next time, too.
Maybe a heat sink or a small low power fan?
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Huh. That’s a good one. Try this: shoot a short set of clips with the 7D at 24, 30, and 60 at various sizes (1080, 480, 720, etc). 5 seconds should be plenty. Open each one in QT and use the inspector to read the files. If you still see issues, make sure you have the most recent updates of Quicktime and your editor.
If software is up to date and the operating system is up to date, the problem may be the camera. Go to Canon’s website and verify you have the most recent firmware (the last one was in April), if you do, dump your images and videos off the camera and reset the camera (in the manual p45 – clear all camera settings). I’m pretty sure this will wipe out picture styles and custom settings, but still leave your pix, but I’d rather not take chances since the file structure is FAT16.
If it’s still a problem, call Canon.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the more technical nature of the 7D will chime in and tell me it’s a simple fix and I’m way off base, but these are the steps I would take.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I’m big on the Zoom H4n as well. Shop around and get one for about $300-400. Get a good mic! I’m partial to the Audio Technica shotgun mic (AT8015) which runs less than $300 new. With the Zoom H4n, you’ll need a good set of headphones. Skip the noise canceling ones. They flavor the audio in subtle ways and you’ll miss things you need to pay attention to. Instead, look for ones that use passive isolation. I like the DirectSound EX25/29. They run about $50-75 and are worth every penny. Lastly, you’ll get an XLR audio cable with your headphones, but spend the coin on a nice cable – I like Monster cables. The rest is up to you – boom pole or PVC pipe, mic stands, etc. There are as many sound options for add-ons as there are for the camera.
Finally, if you plan on doing a lot of studio work (the H4n is assuming you’ll be mobile or on-location), consider a USB-type sound device you can connect to a laptop or desktop machine. You would use your audio app with the device and listen with headphones to see how the recording is going. This will also allow you to add in mixers and such into your recording, but prices jump accordingly and its not smooth ground if you’re a newbie.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Try using Cineform’s Neo Player (https://estore.cineform.com/neoplayer.aspx) for windows. This basically just gives you the codec to transcode the H.264 footage from the 7D to Cineform (use MPEG Streamclip – https://www.squared5.com/) I think. I don’t know what would be comparable to Compressor on PC other than MPEG streamclip.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I tend to agree. We just finished a feature we shot on the T2i and the editor is a die-hard Vegas user. She’s having loads of issues with the footage and grading for color – I drop the same footage into FCP (not even Color) and I have no issues. She doesn’t have AE or Mac, tho… what to do? Looks like I may be doing the editing…
This is a link from Vimeo using picture styles for the 7D: https://vimeo.com/7256322 – the page also has links to download the picture styles.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bullet_time
“Bullet time is a special and visual effect that refers to a digitally-enhanced simulation of variable-speed (i.e. slow motion, time-lapse, etc) photography used in films, broadcast advertisements, and video games. It is characterized both by its extreme transformation of time (slow enough to show normally imperceptible and unfilmable events, such as flying bullets) and space (by way of the ability of the camera angle—the audience’s point-of-view—to move around the scene at a normal speed while events are slowed)…”
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293