Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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Not to belabor the point, but here’s a good quick informational on anamorphic DVDs:
https://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/
Another low-tech solution (using things like iDVD):
https://digitalcontentproducer.com/videoencodvd/revfeat/video_alternative_methods/
And our own Creative Cow blog…
https://forums.creativecow.net/thread/8/1002279
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
May be simply that you are panning too fast. There are rolling shutter issues in general with DSLRs anyway so you don’t want to do any whip panning. How many seconds do you have in the pan from beginning to end? At any point is your subject closer to the camera during the pan than at, say, the beginning – a change in proximity to the camera will make a person move by the camera faster when closer (or slower when farther away) and you get strobing. These are the same basic rules that apply to film.
If the problem just won’t go away, switch to 30P instead and see if that fixes it. Worst case, switch to 60fps and see if that helps. You’ll need to convert, but you can remove some shutter problems.
As for cards – had numerous problems with class 4 and 6 cards (continual overheating, frequently stopped shooting mid-way, etc.). I switched to some cheap Class 10s from supermediastore and I have no problems now other than my own goofs. 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Not really that innovative. The “linear” window structure doesn’t seem much better than a tab-based window setup for Chrome or Firefox and multi-point touch interfaces have been around for a while. If you want a killer editing interface, dig these: https://www.euphonix.com/artist/solutions/video.php
I don’t use these, but I have used them. They are absolutely fantastic to use, very intuitive, but a little pricey. For a studio setup, I can see this being a must-have item. For the average user, the price justification is high.
Finally, the video is from Oct ’09. With the rate at which tech moves, I’m not surprised to see the features in the video are already a bit dated. I think the future of interface will be towards interface-less-ness. For a home computer, you are looking at verbal/visual cues and commands. You get away from the desktop and you don’t have to think about how you interact with your computer – your computer worries about how to interact with you.
Now, video editing may always require your complete attention, but imagine telling the machine how to edit a video and insert motion graphics without your having to directly interface with a machine – you just see the final on your HD tv or your 3D TV or your monitor or your phone or your iPad-type device or your car or the web or your new ocular inputs (okay, that may be pushing it…);. The computer puts it where you want it – rather than you putting where the computer can put it. Your computer is a highly capable companion or employee rather than a machine or a tool. We’re a ways out from that still, but its coming.
Check this out: https://www.ted.com/talks/view/id/457 – I can see thousands of applications in this simple interface.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
DVD footage is heavily compressed. A small speck of dust on the disk can cause complete chaos. I’d try re-ripping the footage. If glitches appear in the same places, it’s likely a problem with the disk.
Instead of MPEG Streamclip, use Compressor – it’s a far more robust app.
What are you using for the rip? I like Handbrake (needs the MPEG2 plugin for Quicktime Pro or Final Cut Pro installed to rip DVD tracks) with good results as you just tell it which clips you want and it rips only those – you can do multiple passes, too if you have a bad spot on the disk. If you want the whole disk all at once, I like Mac the Ripper, BUT if there are anti-theft features (like null tracks) or macrovision on the disk, you need the “beta” version which you can get for a donation. Both apps are freeware.
Of course, the usual rules apply: if it ain’t yours and you don’t have the rights, don’t go making copies, it’s illegal, you’ll get caught and fined thousands. On the other hand, these little freeware apps make work for clients way easier and I can set my old G4 to ripping tracks and disks while I work on my other machines.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I am a big fan of hand-drawn animation – look at iStopmotion which uses a regular video camera. The cheaper or free version is for SD only. You can pay the big extra for the HD version. More here: https://www.boinx.com/istopmotion
The other option for HD is to simply shoot frame by frame in a current digital camera that will shoot pictures at 1920×1080 or larger. You assemble the animations in Quicktime and import to Final Cut. This is what I do for time-lapse video.
Flash will also work, but I don’t care for Flash, personally.
After Effects works great, too. Photoshop as well with CS3+ having video capabilities. Oh, don’t forget Motion.
It all depends on what you want to do.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
System requirements for FCS 3: https://www.apple.com/finalcutstudio/specs/
I use a mac mini to process compressor files via Qmaster. It generally works well for that purpose, but I haven’t tried anything else. In fact, I think because of the way I have all my machines set to process, it often outperforms my other machines since all it does it process compressor files, fiddle with backups, etc.
If you check the system requirements for FCS 3 (I’m assuming this is what you’re gonna use), NVIDIA cards are supported, but not integrated ones. Your mini is this one: https://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_mini/stats/mac-mini-core-2-duo-2.4-mid-2010-specs.html – it says its using a “NVIDIA GeForce 320M” which shares system memory. Maybe possible with maxed-out RAM 8GB?
My question is this: does “integrated Intel graphics processors” mean the NVIDIA GeForce 320M card on the Mac Mini?
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I occasionally run off an older Macbook Pro with my T2i and a 7D. A desktop machine is way better.
The bottle necks will be your RAM, graphics card, and hard drive.
Get the fastest multi-core proc out there, 4GB RAM is not enough. The video cards in most laptops are NOT designed for editing video and you will get choppy performance (especially running h.264 footage as it’s processor and graphics heavy). I use FW800 external drives so I don’t fill up the hard drive after a couple days. Consider getting a backup machine like a Mac Mini or an older desktop G5 or Intel to help with processing files, too. Honestly, I’ve had better experiences working with the new iMacs than with the new Macbook Pros for video. I get the whole remote editing thing, but since I generally just set up in a corner, an iMac works just as well and the graphics cards are a little better. They’re both just as portable, too.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Found an article/tutorial that might help:
Slowing Down Audio with Time Stretch in SoundTrack Pro
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I think it depends on the audio, too. Post to one of the audio forums and see if an audio expert has a solution for you. I am NOT an audio expert. If you sampled the audio at a good bit-rate, you may be able to salvage the audio. The obvious problem is that you have overcranked video with disproportionately overcranked audio. If you spend the money on a good DP, consider spending the $ on a good audio professional, too.
What might work (no guarantees): resample the audio at a higher rate (say 192khz) and higher bit depth (say it was 16bit, can be changed to 24 bit or 32 bit floating) and stretch the audio to match the total video timeline (it will slow down with a lower pitch, but you can “stretch” without a change in pitch with some plug-ins). I THINK this can be done in Soundtrack Pro (assuming you are using FCS). Resampling won’t add any data to the recorded audio, but it will allow you some wiggle room in the audio edit.
Also, you can drop the video (retimed, of course) into Soundtrack Pro, Cubase, Logic Pro and others and use a variety of tools to bend and stretch the audio. If you are not real cozy with this, I strongly recommend a sound engineer who knows how to do audio for video – you have an expert for video, now get one for audio. There are tools most sound engineers will have that many video editors will not.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
The 5D should work fine with an adapter, BUT the adapter may impact the len’s ability to focus to infinity (it may focus past infinity) and any auto-features will likely be disabled. That’s fairly common when adapting a lens to a different body than it was designed for.
I use the 7D or the T2i which have an APS-C (smaller) frame and I adapt Nikon to Canon a lot AND most adapters are designed for full frame anyway (like the 5D Mk II).
Anytime you are switching from one system to another, you will have trade-offs and interesting little issues like infinity focus. I say buy for the camera you want not the lens as the lens will adapt to just about any other system. I picked the 7D and T2i partially on the lenses (I already have a ton of Canon lenses I’ve accumulated), but mostly on the camera bodies and their video capabilities. Worse case, I can sell the lenses and buy some used ones.
Who knows, maybe someone will come up with a 2K+ video DSLR and I’ll have to buy everything all over again.
Want more info? I like this site: https://nofilmschool.com/dslr
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293