Jonathan Ziegler
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Maybe that’s included with their new app you pay $99 for? Anyhow, I have a couple text files that I think are S-curves I downloaded about a year ago… what format do you need? I have a .MGA file (a text file which is a detailed list of curve points) for 3D and a plain text file (not as detailed). Since I’ve never used either (I make my own curves), you can have em. These are not mine so I can’t make any promises.
5758_scurveforcinestyle.mga.zip
and
5759_scurveforcinestyle.txt.zip
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Look slike you need to adjust the tolerance of your paint bucket or use a mask or selection area for the paint bucket fill. If the tolerance is too low, any partially filled pixel will stop the paint bucket fill – so if you’re using a brush with any softness at all, the paint bucket won’t quit go all the way to the edge. By raising tolerance, you can be sure the fill will go farther in. You will get a much more accurate fill by using a selection area or a masked area, too.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I hate to say it, but it may be time for a trip to Adobe’s support areas. 🙁
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
See if any of these work:
1) yep, trash your prefs. Its not that they are brittle per se, but its a constantly opened file which is prone to error due to being constantly written and rewritten. It’s like a flat file, but it’s run like a db file is what I was told.
2) make sure you don’t have caps lock on.
3) open your image, hit cmd-0 (zero) to fill the screen, then use COMMAND-OPTION-plus/minus to get your border. On PC, I think its CTRL-ALT-plus/minus, but I’m not sure – it’s been a long time since I’ve used a PC.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Not sure how technical you want to get here, but here’s the APNG specs:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/APNG#Application_support
https://wiki.mozilla.org/APNG_Specification
I think the basics are: your intro chunks, plus outtro chunks, plus frame size times color depth times number of frames divided by relevant compression equals bits. Divide by 8 for bytes, then 1024 for kB, etc.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Can you give your exact steps to duplicate? Also, are you using the space bar or the hand tool in the toolbar? What is your zoom level? Can you send a screen shot?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
My T2i stops SOMETIMES for the following reasons:
– file too big (past the 12 min limit)
– card really full, but not totally full
– card gets hot (usually from being too slow)
– card too slow (class 6 or lower – I try to always use class10)
– sensor temp too high
– batteries can be an issue if they get hot or suddenly drop amps
– if I get a bad or corrupt Magic lantern build (sometimes it just gets hosed)My fixes:
For temperature, swap the battery out – don’t use off-brand batteries – I’ve had more trouble with those than Canon batteries any day. Spend the extra $ for the Canon batteries. The other off brand ones are now garbage after only a couple months of use – they overheat and won’t hold a charge no matter what I do.
I use a broad variety of card brands – I’ve had trouble with ALL of them from Ridata, PQI, Sandisk, and the list goes on. Stick with 16GB or lower. You can use 32g and higher, but I have more issues with larger cards (32 and 64gb specifically, Sandisks). Don’t know why. Also, use class 10 cards as any other card class seems to overheat no matter what brand.
Also, do regular maintenance on your camera and cards every couple months: reset camera to default settings, do low-level formats on all cards, then you have to reinstall your picture styles with EOS Utility (and reinstall magic lantern if you use it), but the camera just seems to run better.
If the sensor overheats, find a fan – remove the lens and put the mount cover in place (not sure what its called – the thing that covers the camera when there’s no lens) and let the fan blow on the camera for a couple minutes. The T2i is pretty much like the 7D minus the great chassis and the dual processors so it overheats with heavy video use.
I’ve not tried XC cards, but any SD card over 2gb is an SDHC card. I don’t think the T2i supports XC cards – only SD.
Magic Lantern (if you use it and I don’t recommend it if you’re not comfortable with it) can get glitchy from time to time. I’ve been told this has more to do with the SD cards losing data (SD cards tend to be a bit volatile anyway) than ML getting randomly corrupt, but it can happen from time to time. Version 2.3 is pretty stable and I’ve used it for professional photo and video work for the last several months almost exclusively – only when my ML cards are full and I have to use a regular card is it even noticeable. Anyhow, format your cards in-camera and choose to remove ML if its already installed and repeat for each ML card. I also restart the camera with the reformatted ML card and format again to wipe it all out. Reinstall per ML instructions for each card. Do this as a part of periodic maintenance.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I do a load of tracing. I’ll say this: it depends.
If your drawing is clean and you can scan as a hi-res bitmap (just white and black values, no greys), the autotrace works great. If you have complex colors, gradients, thick-to-thin-to-thick lines, you’re better off manually tracing cuz you’ll spend hours redrawing what autotrace screwed up and could just as easily have done it yourself.
Take a look at Flash for tracing too. For some reason, I have better luck with color drawings using Flash’s auto trace tool. Maybe Macromedia had it right before Adobe bought ’em? Dunno. I’ve gone through the tutorials loads of times and done what they say, but my results with autotrace are always off and I’m just too picky with my line work I guess.
Hope this helps. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Try this:
Look at the image, set a couple guides to mark your distance (a start and end distance). In this case, a known distance of say 1 foot or 5 feet or 10 feet or 25. I’m assuming the distance will be either horizontal or vertical instead of diagonal (diagonal is fine, but the flow for this one will need to change). Turn snap on (View >> Snap should have a check).
Switch to your Ruler tool (the letter I or go to the tools palette and find your ruler with the eyedropper tools). Make sure you have the Info palette up, too (in Palette Options, change mouse coordinates to pixels). Now, hold down Shift, position the ruler crosshairs on the first guide, click and hold with the mouse and drag to the second guide. Snap should help with getting the guides just right. Now look at the Info palette and it will tell you # pixels for the distance you just measured.
We’re figuring pixels per foot here (math part):
number of pixels in the measurement / number of feet in the image = pixels per foot.
To figure the number of pixels for 8 feet, multiply 8 x your pixels per foot above to get the number of pixels to add (say, in the Canvas window).
To make things easier, you can do a little conversion on the image first:
For example, if the image is 300 dpi and you have 3 feet per 2 inch (or 600 pixels per 3 feet), that’s 200 pixels per foot. To make 1 inch into 1 foot, convert the image in the Image Size palette to 200 dpi, but deselect Resample image. There won’t be any change in the number of pixels, but your inches will increase. When you’re done, do the conversion back to 300. This way, when you add a foot, you go to the canvas tool and add just 1 inch, you also add a foot to the drawing (cuz 1 inch = 200 pixels = 1 foot).
Lemme know how it works out. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
You’re asking for an awful lot without giving a lot. There are TONS of contracts and letters of agreement online. With a simple search in Google, I found hundreds. Now, you are looking for a simple one – I found those, too, but they’re not for documentaries. Here’s the deal: a letter of agreement and a contract are 2 completely different things. A contract can be binding, but a letter of agreement usually isn’t beyond some basic statements and really functions about the same as your auto mechanic’s short agreement you sign before they start to work on your car – it sounds official, but it probably won’t hold up in court, though it rarely comes to that.
If you are doing a documentary for someone, you will use a contract. A LoA won’t cut it, but it will get you started so you can bill for your time and services until a contract is signed by a certain date upon which they pay for all services you have performed to that point and you either go your separate ways or you sign a contract. That’s about it. Past that, you will need a contract and I highly recommend spending a few bucks to hire a lawyer. Even a couple hundred bucks (think car – you’d spend a couple hundred to get your car running, right? Cuz, like most of us, you’re screwed without a car) on a lawyer can save you thousands in the long run.
Now, if you just want a LoA, write it yourself:
Dear (client),
This letter will serve to establish a professional relationship between myself (include your company name as relevant) and (client or client’s company name) wherein I will be performing the following services:
(List of services – be specific and remember the scope is only to get things rolling, but not to start shooting – you need a contract before you start shooting) – here, list some pre-prod services you will perform like writing, planning, establishing equipment and personnel costs, graphics, etc. Basically, you are developing this project, it’s your property until a contract is signed and/or you get paid, and they are paying you to develop it to a certain point (through concept and some of pre-prod, but not actual production). Make sure to include that whether the client likes it or not, they have to pay you for the work you’ve done in this initial phase anyway. I would still talk to a lawyer about the wording, too.
The term of this agreement is for (set a drop dead date – this is the date at which they will sign a contract and production can start or no deal happens and they pay you for the work you’ve done to that point and go your separate ways) – no more than 60-90 days without a clear contract. (Client) agrees to pay the sum of ($xxxxxx?) for the services rendered above.
Signed, you and the client, include date and time and witnesses as applicable.
I’ve likely left some key stuff out of this LoA. I wrote my own contracts for a long time, borrowing from other contracts until I got screwed and I had nobody to blame, but me. Lessons learned and monies lost. Always talk to a lawyer. When you find a good one, they are your best friend.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293