Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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It depends on several factors:
What kind of video do you normally shoot?
What kind of video do you want or plan to shoot?
Commercial or consumer business?
Talk to your customers, find out what they like and don’t.
Go through your target audience’s life: what do they look for?
The idea is to target your advertising so you’re not wasting time and money NOT reaching your core group.
What image are you trying to convey?
What is your current marketing?
Are you planning business changes that necessitate a change in marketing?
How is your logo? Has it been updated?
Are you hiring someone or are you doing it yourself?
How about your website? Does it have the same look as your business card, logo, website, and business identity?
Are you current sales from word of mouth, internet queries, a salesperson or marketer, your current videos?
Do you have a relevant blog your customers and clients want to read or watch?Try to get a handle on your marketing and advertising so you have a consistent message. Confusing you customers is never a good thing. Did you know the majority of customers are sold or turned off iwithin a few seconds of seeing your logo, advertising, website or other marketing materials? Often, it has to do with basic things like color, shape, and design that you may not consider. I’ve spent years making logos and ads for all kinds of clients – keep it simple, aim to hit your target audience dead center and you will have the best chance of success.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Okay so you will need to do your calibration in the same room with the same lighting conditions:
Bright room, white walls, ideally “daylight” balanced, broad-spectrum bulbs (fluorescent or incandescent). If the room or office is dark, light the wall behind or backlight the monitor. Again, use daylight or broad-spectrum bulbs.
As for the color balance, Apple has a a great little tool (use Expert Mode) which allows you to fine-tune the color on your machine and create a color profile to use for later. I”m not so sure with PC – Photoshop used to install a great little color profile maker for Windows, but I don’t think they do that anymore. I don’t even own a PC anymore so I can’t really say.
https://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows7/calibrate-your-display
https://support.apple.com/kb/PH13768?locale=en_US
Remember: dark rooms make for dark images (your eyes adjust to the dark and what you think is white is actually grey and your blacks get crushed). Bright rooms make for better images. Make a new color profile for each situation: accommodate for windows, room brightness, time of day (sun/no sun), overhead/side/back light, incandescent/fluorescent, balanced for “soft light” or about 2700K, daylight (about 5600K), wall paint color, or other lighting.All of these have an impact on how we see color. To properly balance light, be sure to take the whole room into account.
If you do both machines at the same time, you can compare the same image on each machine. If you can afford to buy a color calibration package (like Spyder), you can get very precise. They have them for PC and Mac.
Remember to do your color calibration often: colors will shift over time as monitors, LCD elements, wiring, and tech in general age. I do mine once a month and more often with heavy use.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Might be easier if you can do the rectangle with logo and type, etc. as it’s own PSD file, then place the PSD on the architectural background. As for resizing, yes, but I suspect it might take a script versus an action in PS. Can you post an example?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
2 steps to fix it. 1) eliminate the Open and Save from the action which triggers the save as window. Basically, to get the script to run right, remove any open or save commands. 2) once you remove those parts, just use Photoshop’s Image Processor (File >> Scripts >> Image Processor) to execute it, change your files, etc. and it will automatically save it all wherever you want, let you specify file formats, pick compression, resize if needed, etc. Choosing the actions is located at the bottom of the Images Processor dialog where you can select from the dropdown. It will do the open, execute your action, and save as for you en masse and you supply the script to do the watermarking only (remember to flatten before you stop recording unless they will be PSDs).
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I do this all the time with actions in Photoshop, though if you are cozy with scripting, you can do that, too. This is what I do for placing a logo in the corner of a photo.
I open an image in photoshop, then start recording. I’ll import an image, then align left or right and align bottom which puts my second layer just into one of the corners, from there, nudge up and right or left. Stop recording and look.
If you are aligning images and the background layer is the same size each time, you can align the second layer to the same points, but you will need to make a new action for each point. Scripting will let you specify a range of locations and you could even read a file with data if you wanted.
https://www.adobe.com/devnet/photoshop/scripting.html
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Hi there, it’s fine to run both – one thing, tho, I notice installing ML may wipe out the Cinestyle picture preset. I keep it permanently installed on my User 3 slot (no reason, just seemed like a good place for it) so I can use it whether I’m using ML or not or shooting photo or video. I find Cinestyle works well for weird lighting conditions and pulling detail back from shadow and highlights, but it comes up a little flat when shooting “normal” lighting. I use it on my Canon t2i, t3i, and I’ve used it on the 5D Mk2.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Frankly, I’m not seeing any issues with the video. I don’t see any lines. The image is really underexposed, though. Even low-light tests still require enough light to use the camera and lens the way they’re supposed to be. Even the Zacuto low-light tests had a lot more light than they were letting on (in a professionally-lit environment I’ll add). I think you are trying to use no-light (or as little as possible) which isn’t a good way to test your camera. For one, even with a f1.8 50mm, you want to have it in the f4 range and, ideally, starting in the f8 range (if you can’t see anything, add light) since f8-11 is the range most lenses are designed (wide open is a last resort). Consider a cine lens – you can rent from places like Borrowlenses for very little $. I’ve seen a lot of complaints about the Canon 70D and it’s lowlight, but in nearly every case, the environment is at almost NO light (no camera works well in no light). Despite this, every camera that captures video needs lots of light to work correctly and even more to work well. You aren’t doing your camera any good with a minimal exposure – you aren’t testing anything at that point because the camera has no range on the low end – you’re just looking for the lowest limit not a range. If you want a good lowlight performer for video, consider a video camera instead of a DSLR.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Depends largely on the colors of the clothing. Pick a color that the clothing isn’t and use that. This assumes opaque clothes – if you have sheer fabric, I’d suggest sticking with a plain white or you may wind up with weird colors.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I’m not seeing any lines. Can you describe what you are seeing? Can you give specifics? The image is a bit underexposed it seems, are the lines brighter if you crank up the ISO?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Egads! Back to school for me: Lab color space is basically, a number for Lightness (L – 0 for darkest black and 100 for bright white) and 2 more for color combinations (a and b). It includes all perceivable colors (RGB and CMYK for example) and is designed to approximate human vision. It is designed to be device independent and it’s used to convert between color spaces (for example when converting from RGB to CMYK and vice versa) in many software apps, RIPs, and graphics drivers. In photoshop, you can use it for Photoshop files, but for output, you will need to convert to RGB or CMYK or another profile. My understanding is that it is mostly used as reference since most image editors use it in the background and, while you can use Lab for your project, many filters and actions aren’t usable in Lab mode.
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293