[Jonathan Ziegler]

Check Adobe’s site on GPU performance if you plan to use the GPU acceleration: https://helpx.adobe.com/illustrator/kb/gpu-performance-preview-improvements.html

Beyond that, set your scratch disks, and having more RAM for graphics and system are never a bad idea (I have 64GB on on my Mac and I would love more still).

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Have you tried re-recording in the new version? Might be something wonky with the resize used in a script I. One version over another. Just a guess.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Looks like a couple later styles in Photoshop.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Can you send a screen shot?

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

First off, Photoshop is a terrible tool for page layout. Use InDesign. It’s incredibly easy compared to photoshop. Either way, tho, just search the web for a brochure template for Photoshop (psd). I know vistaprint has dozens of templates for all sorts of different apps and tons of print products like business cards and brochures and they’re totally free.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Saturation can be added or removed. It’s tough to put it back once removed – it always looks flat.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Discussion here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3250606

Yes to all, but saturation. I would just zero that (dropping contrast will make everything devoid of any highlights or shadow, you don’t want to lose color saturation, but you don’t want to boost it, either). Basically, shoot with whatever built-in “neutral” pic style and drop contrast and sharp. Adjust to suit. Are you shooting raw to your device?

I use Technicolor’s flat pic style for Canon (it’s a free download and really easy to install and it works with Magic Lantern). Nikon has Cineflat – not sure about it, tho (no experience).

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

Bummer. Okay I looked at the enlight app and its features. Does it give you any type of metadata you can read in to make some type of edit at all? I’m going to guess no. In Photoshop CC you can use apply image to see differences – basically, you “subtract” the original from the new version to see what’s changed. No changes will show up as grey (127, 127, 127) and any difference will appear as deviations from that. Anyhow, apply that difference back to the larger image by adding it back to the larger version. I’ve never done this with any volume, but I’m also pretty sure you can automate this process. Because there are image size differences, you may have to blur the differences before applying them. I’m quite interested to see how this works out for you. Please post back.

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Jonathan Ziegler

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520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

My understanding of picture styles (in-camera) is pretty much just what you said: the sensor just senses, but that feed is run through a series of filters, including a sort of s-curve translation for color. That’s where you get picture styles. It seems about that same as placing a filter, automatically, on each image or video. For my DSLRs, I occasionally use the technicolor “flat” picture style and bring it all back in post – which sometimes seems counterintuitive, but it does seems to bring out seemingly lost details. Incidentally, I use the same flat shooting for still photos, too, for some really interesting results.

Even though the sensor has no picture style per se, the files produced do. If you use a pic style during shooting, it will be integrated with your final video. If you want flat, shoot flat and then re-add the technicolor s-curve or another type back to obtain a better final image. Hope that helps. Would love some more detailed discussion on this as my comprehension is based solely on my understanding of color profiles from monitors, printers, etc., though I know the concepts are very similar. For example, I’ve never found a good way to shoot for CMYK with an RGB camera. I know there are curves for it, but the color gamuts don’t agree.

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Jonathan Ziegler

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520-360-8293

[Jonathan Ziegler]

I have the same camera, but I’ve killed the lens. I now use a Tamron 24-75mm f2.8 zoom. I love it cuz I don’t have the stopping up and down you get with zooming the kit lens. In the past, I’ve rented the canon 24-70mm f2.8 zoom from borrow lenses and it also worked great and their weekend rates are really great – they don’t charge for weekends so you can get it Thursday, return Monday and only pay for 3 days (5 days for the price of 3). I like to pack as much as I can in the rental time frame. Sorry for the borrow lenses pitch. 😉

For auditions, make sure you have lots of even light so don’t wind up squinting at the computer screen later. A camera with good lowlight is no match for lots of light – don’t rely on gainy low-light – no ISO higher than 400 with that camera or 320 if you have magic lantern installed. Also, make sure sound is close – it doesn’t matter if you can see the mic since you are doing auditions. I like to shoot wide shots when they first enter frame, then I tighten up to shoulders and head on either the right or left Side of the frame so they look their best.

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Jonathan Ziegler

http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293