John Young
Forum Replies Created
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Maybe a little hard to decipher what you are asking.
I think you are asking the Creative Cow community two things: 1) What are your thoughts on this sample video? and 2) What could be improved in my time-lapse workflow?
Is that right?
If so,
1)I don’t think your footage looks over-exposed. There is just a guy in a dark shirt and everything else is white in the shot. I think technically (with regard to exposure and focus) the shot is fine, it is just boring. Try getting a better angle, and better lighting.
2) You might have to tell us more info on how you are doing this “time-lapse”. When people typically use the term “timelapse” with a DSLR, they are taking a series of still photographs that are put together in a sequence. I am not sure if that is what you are talking about because you are asking about 1920 and 480 resolutions which would have no bearing on still photography.Give us more information and we might be able to help you out. And try to give us specific information with specifics questions instead of multiple paragraphs giving a vast narrative on your project.
Thanks. -
You are probably dealing with a USB 1.0 transfer speed. I have solid Lexar reader, that works well. It is USB 2.0. It is a dual slot (CF and SD) which is perfect for my needs (CF for my Canon 7D cards, SD for my Zoom H4N cards). But I now see that they make the same reader in USB 3.0 which is quite a bit faster.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=845797&Q=&is=REG&A=details
If your computer has USB 3.0 connections this would be a good way to go.
John
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I think people are confusing some terms here “rendering” and “exporting” (which are kind of the same thing, but used in a different way.)
I believe Geoffrey is talking about “rendering” in terms of previewing his work, not “exporting” to a seperate file. And if I am correct, Geoffrey, you are right that this should be simpler and I haven’t found a workaround. You basically are forced to render a nested sequence to see what it looks like, then render the same nested sequence in the master sequence. It is cumbersome and Adobe needs to address it. -
The Canon 7D does not have a live histogram function. The only way to get a histogram type image readout from a 7D (or any other Canon DSLR, I believe) is to take a still image and then look at the Info on that stored still image.
Ah, joy of shooting DSLR…
(you end up learning a lot of workarounds) -
I can’t speak specifically to the 5DMIII but sharpness settings are almost always set as low as possible. (I think Canon is a -4 settting). That will help for sure, but you also might mess around with picture styles. Neutral might be better than the other settings.
John
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Looks like typical aliasing (moire) that happens with all DSLRs. I thought the 5D MII had fixed that problem (or at least really mitigated it).
John
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No. That thumbnail is actually a function of the player program, not the video file. You will see that the same file can have a different Quicktime thumbnail than a Windows Media thumbnail. Depending on the use of the final video, YouTube lets you choose between three thumbnails taken from different parts of the video. On Vimeo you can upload a separate still image file to be used as a thumbnail.
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Let me put it this way.
The capabilities of a large sensor camera are vastly greater than the capabilities of a HF M400. Capabilities is the key word here. I can’t tell how you are using your camera to not be able to get something that isn’t significantly better out of the T3i than you are getting out the handheld camcorder. If you put each camera in a terrible setup with a terrible lighting situation. You might not be able to tell the difference, because they both look, well, terrible. No surprise. But if you put the large sensor camera in a good or even decent lighting situation and you know what you are doing, I bet you will be able to tell the difference.
The ceiling on what you can achieve in image quality is much higher on a large sensor camera, than on a prosumer camcorder. The camera is not a magic bullet, it is a tool and you still have to know what you are doing. You can put a RED in awful lighting situation and it won’t look that good either. David was right to bring up lenses. The capabilities of the T3i to be able to use high quality lenses makes a huge difference. -
[Vic Noseworthy] “Does (cropped sensor) DSLR offer better image than 1/3″ chip camcorder, in general?”
Yes. Yes. By all means, yes. Even a ASP-C sensor is almost 5 times large than a 1/3″ sensor. That means much better low light performance and much shallower depth of field capabilities. When talking DSLRs those qualities are what many people mean when they are talking “image quality” (quite a vague term). If you are shooting outside on a bright sunny day with your T3i at f22, you might be diminishing that “image quality” difference between that camera and your camcorder.
You might have to be more specific about this side by side footage that doesn’t show a difference between the two. DSLRs have their drawbacks, “image quality” is not one of them. -
Don’t worry Caleb. Much of this DSLR stuff is pretty new to a lot of people. Even people who have been doing video production for a long time. In many ways it is just a different way of going about things. It is a throwback to days of film in many ways.
You can focus a couple of different ways. You can use the 5x and 10x magnification button to get a real close look of what your trying to focus on. Then manually set your focus using the focus ring on the lens. Or if you need to move a little bit faster, you can move your on-screen selection box to the area of the frame you want in focus. Then press your shutter button halfway down until the camera auto-focuses. Then press record.
You should not have to mess with you aperture at all. If you do it will change your depth of field.I know the Sony Alphas with the transparent mirror auto-focus while recording, but a few of the examples I have seen of it didn’t look super smooth.