John Mensinger
Forum Replies Created
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The effect is known as “photo mosaic.” There are various Photoshop-only techniques as well as any number of plugins and filters, free and for-pay. Google it.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
It’s true that high-resolution images will only serve to bloat the PowerPoint file. Images destined for PowerPoint are best saved using Save For Web to JPEG, (or PNG if preservation of transparency is desired).
Ideally, you’d want the images saved at the size, (dimensions), they’ll appear on the final slide layout. You may know or be able to ballpark those sizes if you’re the one who’ll do the slide layouts. But if you’re only handing the images off to someone else, just consider that the typical PowerPoint slide is a letter-size page in landscape orientation, so that’s the largest size they could need, and most times, they won’t be covering an entire slide with the image. The monitor or projector on which the slide will be displayed most likely will be 800-1200 pixels in width.
I don’t know what size, (dimensions), the 300ppi scans are, but in your position, I’d simply resize each image using Photoshop’s Image Size dialog. With “Constrain Proportions” and “Resample Image” both enabled, enter a value in the Pixel Dimensions | Width field of 1000-1200 pixels, (more than enough), click OK, and then Save For Web as mentioned above. Don’t worry about resolution, (ppi). Save For Web discards that information. Pixel dimension is the only critical measurement.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
The source and original quality will have no bearing. 77 x 23 is simply too few pixels to accurately render the shapes.
Think of it as trying to make a 1:1 scale mosaic picture of your hand using matchbooks. The detail of the hand shape is smaller than the matchbooks can represent. Can’t be done.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Yes, save it as a tool preset, like this:
https://tv.adobe.com/watch/the-russell-brown-show/tool-presets/
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Ah, well apparently, we’re mixing terms. Hue/Sat, Invert, and other operations found on the Image > Adjustments menu are not generally referred to as “effects,” so I misinterpreted your intentions.
To reuse an adjustment, you would want to apply it using an Adjustment Layer, which could subsequently be copied like any other layer, or moved/grouped in the layer stacking order to affect additional or select pixel-content layers. If you apply an adjustment by invoking its dialog via the Image > Adjustments menu, it’s usually a one-off commitment that can’t be recalled, except in cases where the particular adjustment, (i.e., Levels or Curves), dialog includes Save and Load buttons.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Yes. In the Layers panel, Cmd+Click/Rt-Click on the effect-bearing layer’s fx icon and choose Copy Layer Style. Then Cmd+Click/Rt-Click on the target layer and choose Paste Layer Style.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Eric,
The feature is called Smart Guides, and found under View > Grids & Guides… Or, it can be toggled on/off using Cmd/Ctrl+U, (which is probably how you inadvertently turned it off).
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Well, you are rightly choosing the correct tool for the job, particularly if the art contains hundreds of vector objects. So that brings it back around to your thread-opening statement:
“I have a project where I need the end art work to be turned in as vector layers in photoshop.”
Why? Who says so?
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Ben, if your apps are of recent version, read up on “Smart Objects.”
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor. -
Marten,
See this thread on the Adobe User Forum.
John M:
All of the vim with none of that annoying vigor.