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  • Jerry Renes

    July 2, 2008 at 9:13 am in reply to: Camera mapping sample

    Nice!

  • Jerry Renes

    July 2, 2008 at 7:48 am in reply to: Panning Effect Across Multiple Polaroids

    My best guess is that this is the problem:

    The camera has a point of interest which is focused on the comp at the moment. If you move the position of the camera, you don’t change the point of interest. (Like a string with one end stuck to a table and one end in your hand, when you move your hand, the part of the string stuck to the table stays there, which in this case is your point of interest.

    Ofcourse you can just move the polaroid comp across the cable but a better way of doing this is moving the camera, which leaves room for more complex camera movements later on. OK here we go:

    An easy way to make camera movements more simple is link the camera to a “null object.” This (sort of) unlinks the point of interest. Here’s how to do this.

    Go to LAYER > NEW >> NULL OBJECT.

    a new invisible layer is added to the comp, the null object.

    Now Link the Camera Layer to the Null Object Layer.

    If you want, you can make the Null Layer a 3d layer.
    Use the position properties of the null layer to pan the linked camera.

    Easy as that. Good Luck!

    Jerry

  • Hi Dan,

    I once made a sort of flipbook animation which worked in the same way.

    Some points of attention:

    Create the board background.

    Make the flips with their anchor point at the bottom

    Place the flips 1 pixel above the background and turned 90 degrees up.
    OR make the whole flips in Photoshop OR link text layers to them.

    Animate a single flip layer and then duplicate it several times and offset those layers to form a flip sequence. Make sure that the layers that are later in time are on top of the other layers. (You can precompose this sequence to tidy up your main comp if you wish, but then you have to add the letters for the flip sequence in that pre-comp.)

    A good way of doing a “flip through and stop” is to take the flip sequence and later in time put the flip (and letter) animation you want to stay visible later in time on top of that.

    Put one or two lights facing the background on the top and bottom half, this adds shadow and makes the effect more realistic.
    Turn on the motion blur.

    You can make a standard flipthrough sequence or make every flip sequence “real”, depends on what you want exactly.

    That’s all what I can think of now. It’s still early here 🙂

    Good Luck!

    Jerry

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