[Jeff Pulera]

You didn’t state what version of PP you have, but if you have the Warp Stabilizer effect, apply that to the person clip by itself, full screen, set to “No Motion”. Once that clip is stabilized, then EXPORT it as a new clip, then import that new, stabilized clip and use it for the PIP.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Paul,

I think the first step would be to see whether Premiere is treating the new clip as interlaced or progressive. On PC, you’d right-click the clip in the Bin – don’t know the Mac equivalent, but look at “Modify > Interpret Footage” and see what it shows for Field Order. If it says Progressive, try to manually select “Upper Field” and then see how the clip behaves. I just tried some new software on the PC that is able to create ProRes files, and my conversion from a 1080i source was showing up as Progressive in Premiere and didn’t look right, yet was fine when I changed setting to interlaced, so the file WAS interlaced but was not properly “labeled” as such basically.

In the Program Monitor options, you do have the option to show Both Fields, or one or the other, so that’s another consideration, but of course you do want to verify that the clip is actually interlaced first since you did want 1080i.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Not a Mac user, but Google “use compressor to make dvd” and first result has a lot of good tips

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Stephen,

To create a DVD that meets the DVD spec to be playable on set-top players, the DVD content MUST be “authored” in Encore or similar – one cannot just burn an MPEG-2 file to the DVD as “data”. That may work for computer playback, but will not work in a DVD player. I think that is what you are asking.

You can certainly create an auto-play DVD in Encore with no menus. You can then BUILD as an IMAGE, rather than a DISC. This creates an .iso file on your hard drive and you could send that to the customer via Drop Box or similar. That .iso can then be easily burned with any free burning app such as ImageBurn or BurnAware for instance, creating a proper DVD. Just use the “Burn Image” feature.

The .iso file should really not be much larger than the MPEG-2 video/audio files were to start with.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Santiago,

Taking 23.976 video to 29.97 is called “adding pulldown”. This repeats/inserts certain frames and fields to arrive at the resulting frame rate. Go online and search “24p pulldown”, plenty of reference material and images to better explain the details than I can here.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Lisa,

You’re welcome. Also, regarding VBR or CBR for encoding, I generally stick with CBR for shorter videos (why not maximize quality consistently) and when getting above 90 minutes I might use VBR. Matter of personal preference, you’ll get different suggestions from various users.

Good luck

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Check out the Matrox MicroQuad unit. Accepts 4 HD-SDI inputs and outputs a quad-view HDMI signal. Can also switch to full-screen HD of any input, and can switch glitch-free between inputs.

There is a button on the box to toggle view, but unit can also be connected to a laptop via USB and laptop app can control the MicroQuad features.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi John,

What NLE software do you work with? DVD authoring package? Mac or PC?

Please understand that if your video was shot as progressive (1080p), then there are no fields, only frames. Sure, you can output as 576i, but the result is that both fields will be the same. You can’t create true interlaced results from a progressive source. So not sure what you mean by wanting interlaced DVD for “graphic animation” purposes.

You can create a DVD as “PAL Wide Progressive” and that would be most suitable to the source material. Most displays are now progressive natively anyway (flat panels).

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Hi Santiago,

Changing frame rates can affect playback quality. 60p to 30p is fine, as it just uses every other frame evenly. But when going from 30p to 24p, not so simple and there will be some jerkiness. Rather than skipping every other frame, it’s more like use two frames, discard third, use next two, discard third, and so it has a strange rhythm, known as a “cadence”.

What is the reason you want to do this? If you want the “film look”, then it would be better to just shoot at 24p. Another option is to try the Premiere effect called “Time > Posterize”. This will create a 24p look when applied to a 29.97 clip, and you would then output as 29.97.

This may have better results than simply exporting 29.97 as 23.976 video. My cameras shoot 1080i only, and for weddings, I will often apply Posterize to the fast dance footage to give it a more fun, edgy look, rather than the “live video” look.

I would simply export a few samples using the different methods and see what looks best to YOU. Only you know the end result you desire.

Thanks

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

[Jeff Pulera]

Are you talking about “spanned” clips? When making a long recording, the camera creates several short clips. When those clips are joined on the timeline, sometimes there is a jump or audio problem between them. Is that what you mean by “chapters”, the part where the clips meet?

The best thing to do is copy ALL folders from memory card to your hard drive, as is, do not alter the data. Then in Premiere, use MEDIA BROWSER to Import the files. This will usually provide smoother, seamless playback in the sequence. If you just use “File > Import” and put all the short clips together, they may not behave properly.

Thank you

Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers