[Jeff Hinkle]

First, check the Save command in the File menu and make sure CTL-S is still showing up as the shortcut. Can’t imagine it wouldn’t be, but you never know.

Second, if you do anything that causes the image to be anything but a flattened document (create a layer, make some text, add an adjustment layer) Photoshop will default to trying to save as a layered PSD to preserve the layers. Even if you only have one layer, if it’s not a flattened background layer, it’ll try to save to PSD.

Since you already have a save-to-JPEG Action started, you could add a “flatten” command to the start of it and that should clear up your issue.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

I think I understand what you’re getting at. Couple possible suggestions.

1. Depending on how much actual distortion you want, you can make a 3d postcard out of your object and rotate it to taste. You won’t get quite the severe right-side compression you show, but there won’t be any X-axis distortion.

2. Probably closer to what you want, but you do need some extra pixels top and bottom you’re willing to lose. Use the Perspective Crop tool, then squeeze in the corners on the LEFT side of the image. Apply the crop and Photoshop will adjust things to keep overall ratio of the internal pixels the same. Then use a mask to clip away the top and bottom of the image to match your perspective. Not automatic, but should be faster and more precise than warping by hand.

https://images.creativecow.net/99851/perspective.jpg

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Your JPEGs aren’t changing size. After Effects brings them in at actual size. If your composition is smaller than the image, you’ll only see a portion of the image unless you scale it down. Think of it as looking through a small window at a large painting. Unless you shrink the painting to fit in the window you’ll never see all of it at once. And if you put an even larger picture on top of the first painting, you’ll see even less of it.

Looking at your image sizes, 1.jpg looks to be about three times larger, dimensions-wise, than boxshutnomail.jpg so you’ll see different portions of each image when dropped into the same comp. Post a screen shot of your comp settings dialog box (CTL-K) and the Image Size dialog box from Photoshop (ALT-CTL-I) for your two JPEGs and we’ll see what’s up.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

I think you’re seeing your JPEG but only a tiny portion of it. Your image size is over 4,000 X 2,000. If you notice, the size percentage in your viewer is only 4%. If you adjust the scale of your JPEG, you should see the mailbox appear.

That said, working with an image that large, unless you need to scale in really close, is extra overhead you don’t need. You’ll get better performance with an image closer to your final output size.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Looks pretty straightforward. You could match the look pretty easily with a textured photo background and some selective masking for blurs and fades. Then some adjustment layers for colors, highlights/shadows and you should be pretty close. It’ll take you some time but it’s doable. If you don’t feel up to the task, post in the “Jobs Offerered” section on the Cow.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

The Add/Delete Anchor Point tools won’t help; that’s strictly for vector paths. The center point of a layer is moveable if you get the cursor directly over it. You should see the small icon at the lower right of the cursor when you’re over it. Try this: select the Move tool (V) and in the option bar at the top of your window, turn on “Show Transform Controls.” That should give you a bounding box and center point. Move the cursor over the center point and the cursor should change from a pointer with a large 4-point arrow to a pointer with a small 4-point arrow to let you know you’re on the center point. You should now be able to drag it around.

If you still can’t affect the center point, go to the tool options (far left of the option bar) and click on the drop-down arrow. Then select the small gear icon and choose “Reset Tool” from the menu. That will reset the Move tool to its standard settings. Might be enough to jog loose whatever the problem is. If that still doesn’t work, you may need to reset Photoshop’s preferences. On Windows, that’s holding down Ctl-Alt-Shift while starting Photoshop. Might be you have a corrupt preference.

That said, Photoshop will NOT remember center point placement once you complete a transformation. If you move the center point to, say, a person’s eye, then rotate and hit Return, if you come back to that layer to transform it again, the center point will be back at the center of the layer, not where you left it.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

I believe Photoshop has a 500-frame limit on animated GIFs. You could try rendering at a lower frame rate to cut down the number of frames.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

Bruce,

You’re still facing the same issues with your talent photo: the lighting, angle, quality and colors don’t match at all. Using the built-in web cam on your computer, I’m guessing? Try using a better camera and have someone take the photo of you. Try to match the angle and lighting of your set photo.

As for the monitor, you can probably cut that out to its own layer, slide it over, and use other parts of the image to paint in the hole it leaves, but it’ll take a bit of time to get it to look right.

Good luck!

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

You don’t really say HOW you want to merge the files. Are you trying to get the man to sit behind the desk? (The monitor will be blocking his face.) Is he supposed to be in front of the desk? Is he in the monitor?

I will say this: based on the two photos’ wildly varying colors, quality, lighting, angles, etc. making them look like they are actually one photo is highly unlikely. Rather than beat your head against a wall for hours trying, I’d suggest you at least re-shoot your talent with a higher-quality camera, lit to match the scene you’re trying to place him in. Save yourself a lot of headaches.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.

[Jeff Hinkle]

It might help if you post a screen shot of the image and how it looks in both Photoshop and FCP.

Are you using the video presets in Photoshop to make your canvas? Two of those sequence settings use non-square pixels so if you’re dropping in an image with the correct dimensions but square pixels, things are going to start looking screwy.

—
It is easier to destroy than to create.
More fun, too.