Heinrich Himmel
Forum Replies Created
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As Bob Peterson states, you are getting motion blur in the photos. That can only be corrected to a certain degree, but the photos will still look bad. You can try using clarity adjustment on adobe lightroom (or photoshop camera raw filter). I believe there are open source alternatives like Gimp and Darktable which should have similar features.
For shooting, you have to keep in mind the inverse shutter rule. If you are shooting at shutter speed slower than the inverse of your focal length, you will need a tripod to prevent motion blur. For example, at 300mm, you will need a tripod at slower than 1/300 shutter speed! Also, the gear may be holding you back a bit. Your lens is a good lens, but not for low light without flash! If this is a paid job, consider a sports zoom (maybe 70-200 2.8). The 2.8 would bring in 2x more light than your current lens and the VR should compensate to minimize motion blur. If you are photographing pretty much still action (like speakers and such) where you do not need to be mobile, then a tripod would help incredibly! Also, play with your camera and figure out how high you can push ISO in similar lighting to get good photos. Find a balance between noise and motion blur that gives the best final outcome.
If your camera has the ability to take raw photos (I am not familiar with Nikon) underexpose a little by using a faster shutter speed and recover shadow detail in something like Lightroom or Darktable. I would rather correct for exposure than motion blur. Each camera has different limits on how much you can underexpose though. A noisy sensor would not allow you too much because you will bring in a lot of shadow noise when you correct. Again, test the limits of your equipment so you can get the best out of it.
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I find that for milti-cam cut only editing, even my surface pro (no joke) is adequate and that is far below your current PC spec.
I would completely ignore passmark and all other benchmarks. They only show what the CPU at 100% is capable of. This will rarely be the case in Vegas or any software. I think you can test your system with a better GPU (sell your current GPUs and get a single R9 series card). I agree with John Rofrano however that you will not get a big boost. Ram will help you in some rare instances where Vegas needs more than 8GB or if you want to run more than 1 instance of Vegas. GPU will help your timeline editing (allow you to use better resolution).
In terms of 4790, I will recommend against that CPU for anything but gaming. An AMD 8320 build has the potential to perform on par at less money and a 5820K build will outperform it by a lot for about $100 more.
At this point, if building, go for an ~$900 AMD system or ~$2000 i7 5820K system. Anything in between will either perform about on par with the AMD and much worse than the 5820K. Depends what you are doing though. 5820K is overkill (but nice) currently for HD editing, but adequate for 4K. AMD build would be good for HD editing, but probably underpowered for 4K. I believe neither will be a “Wow!” improvement over your current system other than maybe the 5820K and only in rendering (maybe 2x boost).
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I would go AMD R9 series now. There are good deals out now and they perform very well.
Adobe uses OpenCL as well. My R9 280x is about 20% slower than GTX 580 in GPU acceleration.
Photoshop runs pretty fast on all my systems… Heck it runs fast on my laptop and Surface pro. I generally only work on 1 photo/image at a time in Photoshop. Only for certain edits. For something like Wedding Photos, I use Lightroom. It is maybe 50x-100x faster workflow. Editing and exporting 1000 photos takes 3 hours vs days/weeks in photoshop…
John Rofrano’s build is similar to mine, just a half generation older. It is a good start for someone looking to have a strong PC for editing. At this point, I would do x99 system with 5820K and an R9 card. No sense getting better CPU unless you have use for the extra PCI lanes (multiple GPU, RAID cards, etc…)
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Depends on what you are doing. Keep in mind that Vegas turns resampling on by default. If your footage does not match your project settings, playback will slow to a crawl. For example, if I drop 24fps footage on 23.97fps timeline, my 4930K with R9 280x gets 2 – 3fps!! If I disable resampling or change timeline to 24fps, then playback is full frame rate.
Also consider that when editing, if you make lots of cuts, your HDD will begin to bottleneck your parts.
As for your setup, you actually have a very good motherboard. Not the best, but far from the worst. I don’t know how your 470 compares to a GTX 580, but I get full frame rate playback with that. There is a chance you may have something else going on and while any R9 is a much better card, it may not solve the issue.
What is your budget by the way?
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I personally convert AC3 to WAV (though I rarely do this nowadays) before going to another format. You can use free software (like eac3to) to process the audio and it is rather quick.
To attempt to answer your DVDA question, it sounds like you are dragging it on to a menu. Under the general tab when the menu is opened, make sure that the length is set to the the length of the audio (usually auto calculate does this however).
Perhaps post a screenshot though and it will be easier for people to see what you are doing and provide better help.
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You are correct that they are not supported, but something is happening. My R9 280x averages 25% utilization during renders with peaks of 48% using Mainconcept Blu Ray (note that I typically use Sony AVC for Blu Ray). However CPU usage is 100%! I think renders will speed up although not to the extent that the HD 6xxx series.
For comparison, using Sony AVC, renders take 60% of the time and GPU utilization is 35% with peaks at 42%. CPU utilization averages 30% with peaks of 35%. I always used Sony AVC because it is faster than Mainconcept even with my Fermi GPU.
Recently an HD 6970 was being sold by newegg on ebay new for $130. That is a good deal and the fastest Mainconcept approved GPU, but timeline acceleration works better on the newer AMD cards (not a big deal unless you pile on the effects).
As for used Fermi cards, that is pretty much the only option for them for a reasonable price.
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Roger, that GT 720 is not meant to be used for heavy GPU tasks. It is a basic GPU. While the Fermi cards are great, at this point they are considered antiques and will have a higher price (because they are nearly impossible to find new).
For overall performance, I would recommend anything in the AMD R9 series. Reason being that the extra vRAM is sometimes helpful. Render-wise, I believe any AMD R7 will pretty much max out performance. Look out for deals. Last week the Vapor-X R9 290x was only $229!!! That is the best version of the 290x you can find. For AMD cards, get Sapphire or Gigabyte. Those are probably the best (although there are others that are good as well) and stay away from reference design coolers.
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The only way you can make that look happen in DVD is by making separate menus for each highlighted button and not actually show any highlights. Basically pressing down or up on the remote would take you to a new menu:
Menu 1
>>button
button (really there is no button here)
button (really there is no button here)Menu 2
button (really there is no button here)
>>button
button (really there is no button here)Menu 3
button (really there is no button here)
button (really there is no button here)
>>button
etc…
This means that every time you navigate up and down, it will load a new menu (a pause between navigation), but this is the only way to do it to look exactly like what they want. Explain this to your client and have them decide:
>Garbled text
>Clean text and the look they want but loading every time they press up or down on the remote or
>something else that looks good and works as it shouldPersonally, if I had to wait 1 sec every time I pressed up or down on a remote, I would throw the DVD player out the window 😛 But I am very impatient with tech 🙂
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Make sure your bit rate is correct. I do video using AVC at 21,999,999 bps. I never go above this number. Also, have Encore create an ISO and use a separate software to burn (ImgBurn is what I use).
Other than that, it could be bad burner, bad media, old firmware on your burner, etc…
I suspect your media if your bit rate is good. Make sure your media is HTL. It is most compatible with players. This media usually cost more, but is more reliable and better quality overall. I can’t speak about what brand. I buy mine from Japan, but perhaps Verbatim is good? They have made excellent CD-R and DVDR media, so I would assume their BD-R media is good as well.
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I tend not to use the simulator when using encore. I’ve had issues with it before. At any rate, try going to the flow chart and see what your first play is set as. It should be something like: “your_main_menu:Default”
Also, do not rely on Encore to do your button navigation. It makes no sense how the auto route buttons works. It is time consuming, but do it yourself. Also, keep that part as simple as possible to prevent mistakes.