Greg Ondera
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COW Coin
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I used DVD Studio Pro for Build and then burn in Toast by way of encouragement from a Lynda instruction. I sometimes build and burn in Studio Pro. I guess I’ll go back to burning -Rs. But don’t replicators burn what they want, either -Rs or +Rs from either DVD master?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
So back a couple of years I switched to DVD+Rs because I was getting reports of problems with DVD-Rs in Windows computers. What makes the difference and should I be sending masters for clients to replicate in DVD-Rs?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
This is very scary indeed. It seems that Sony should work on some system of diagnostics that us users can run to check the patency of cards. There has to be a way of predicting this before it happens.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
I use calibrated at times, although mostly use XDCam Transfer to rewrap the footage. But you can test Calibrated–it holds a watermark over the footage until you purchase. Calibrated works quite well.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
So I am learning here too, and want to hear what others have to say. I have not done this myself in any program but I have turned color photos to black and white in Photoshop and the only way to get great results is to work with the red channel, like the way old black and white cameras necessitated, like using the red filters over the lenses in olden days. This pops out the texture of black and white and adds depth. So I wonder if the same process would work for video. First increase the red saturation, then desaturate completely. It seems like this should work more than changing the color parade in 3 way color correction. What do you think?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
I like those warm cards from Vortex https://www.vortexmedia.com/WC_VIDEO.html however, if I want to correctly white balance I always use a 18.5% gray card from any photo shop at $7 to get it right. If you don’t want to spend the dough on warm cards, do you have a color gel book? Use a slight blue to warm up, orange to cool down–opposite colors for the opposite effect.
I’m curious why you want to warm up the subjects?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Sounds very reasonable. I was enticed by the notion of purging old useless documents and thus increasing speed. But it makes sense that this software is possibly of little value.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Also, since you’re new to the camera, get Doug Jensen’s DVD at https://www.vortexmedia.com/DVD_EX3.html in order to understand the workflow. Sony doesn’t teach you a damn thing about it and Creative Cow is full of panic questions about XDCam workflow. It’s so easy to write over the BPAV folder unless you know what you’re doing. Don’t mess with the contents of the BPAV folders either. Create individual folders for each card ingest. And you need to download XDCam Browser as well as XDCam Transfer if you’re working in FCP, and don’t forget the drivers. Go to:
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
I understand the concern and I really try not to use auto-focus, especially when I suspect that the background will pull the focus in the direction of the background and cause the subject to go out of focus. Busy backgrounds are murder with auto-focus. If you are hand-holding the camera then you might consider keeping your left finger close to the auto-focus button, know where it is. I think this is why Sony put it there as the first and lowest button. Do it by feel. You also have the ability to click the focus ring in and out of place, but this will cause a glitch in camera movement that is undesirable. I would generally keep this ring engaged but know where the auto-focus button is in order to click it on and off. It also depends on the speed of the subject and training yourself to think in an arc of distance. If the subject is running past you at the same distance, then you don’t need auto, but if it is running towards you or away and you are in tele, then consider that button for a quick on and off.
All of this being said, use the PEAKING feature on the camera so you can tell when you’re in focus in the eyepiece. In fact, never buy a monitor that doesn’t have some kind of peaking feature if you’re going to use it in the field.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Right on, Craig! I just wanted to pitch Doug Jensen’s DVD (I’ve been spelling his name wrong earlier) from Vortex Media, titled “Mastering the Sony PMW-EX3” as the source that taught me. However Sony should be shouting out the information that is within that DVD. Actually, they should contract out portions of that DVD and post it on their site and send an email out to all XDCam users to go look at the site.
Here is the URL: https://www.vortexmedia.com/DVD_EX3.html
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org