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Also are you playing this on your computer, then what is your computer.? Or are you playing it over YouTube? Do you see a difference when you play the freshly encoded video on your computer than YouTube?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
If you had a previous thread going, then you should have kept this question with that thread, because there is not enough information here at all. What are the settings you are encoding to?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Have you tried transferring on another computer?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Greg Ondera
May 31, 2011 at 6:37 am in reply to: Removing “fog or haze” caused by humidity from videoThere is nothing you can do in my opinion. But next time, try to monitor the camera while you’re shooting. Also understanding convection can be helpful. The lens surface needs to be warmer than the environment to keep the lens clear. Humidity is a bear though, and since you’re driving into it, and cooling the lens while you’re driving, it makes sense that the humidity is ravaging your lens. Consider a warm, clean glass in front of the lens somehow. In that kind of humidity I would really think that one through first. I know what it is like coming out of air conditioning with a camera and it fogging up for a long time after. Sometimes I will face the lens to the sun to warm it up quicker and get it hotter than the environment as fast as possible.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
My goodness! This is not directed at solving this problem so much as to asking if you tried Calibrated Software https://www.calibratedsoftware.com/MP4EXImport_Mac.asp as an alternative to getting the footage without rewrapping?
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
T-stops are used by cinematographers pretty consistently as it is a more accurate measurement tool of the true light coming through a lans.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
As one who went from using PD-170s and loving the radiance of the picture quality in those cameras to the EX3 and EX1, I sometimes bemoan the loss of that radiance. However there is always a lot you can do to the picture in post. I do frequently use “Doug’s look” though.
https://www.vortexmedia.com/DVD_EX3.html
As for tripods I think the Miller carbon fiber tripods are great https://www.millertripods.com/product-type/tripods especially for their lightness and extendability.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Well, I bought a Quantum LTO-4 (Model B) Half-Height Drive TC-L42BX, a SCSI drive and an ATTO Express PCI UL5D for my Mac, and this process is a bear, a living grizzly bear and it is not finished yet. I have been on the phone and writing everyone and simply cannot get it to work. I’m trying Retrospect 8 and I can see the drive in Storage Devices, it shows up in System Profiler, but no ability to work with it. I have been at this for over two months and wonder if I did the right thing. Next I will try to trade out terminators, as the one I got from Electronics Plus may not be as specific for the ATTO card or the Quantum drive. I regret going the SCSI route. I regret not getting a system from someone like ProMax. I don’t have the coin to get a Cache-A or similar device and only want to back up my XDCam footage in case drives go out. I figure something like this is likely better than mirrored drives, as I can always fetch the footage if something goes wrong with a drive. Well it has been frustrating and I am not finished with the frustration yet.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
Craig’s analogy that each card is a cassette is right on! You label cassettes with a pen but we label the cards with a folder stating which number it is in the sequence of cards.
Doug Jensen has a good description of the workflow on https://www.vortexmedia.com/DVD_EX3.html.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org -
I see so many of these kind of posts–people who rent or borrow an XDCam EX camera and then try to cherry pick the video files out of the BPAV folders. Sony actually should have done a better job of teaching workflow but they did a lousy job of it and now it is left to respondents on Cow. This is a brave new world of tapeless workflow and it takes some preparation and thinking, and is not something you want to do after you shoot on a rental, and have to give the cards back with the camera.
But if you have the cards, hopefully you haven’t dumped your BPAV folders on the cards. Be warned, they are all labelled BPAV and you need to set up an individual folder for each card, like “Card A” and “Card B” and “Card C” and so on depending on how much you shoot.
Then you should always use XDCam Browser to locate and drop those Clips into the folders you set up on your drive. This actually creates a new “BPAV” folder in the previously empty folder on the drive. DO NOT OVERWRITE THESE once you drop them in. Browser has precautionary warnings and imagery.
Then use XDCam Transfer to re-wrap what is in Browser. Make sure you go to preferences and tell it all to go Capture Scratch and the folder in there you want it to go in. Bring all those cards into XDCam Transfer at once. Highlight all cards, and hit Import All Clips and that sets it up for FCP. Only taking it through Browser does not set it up for FCP. It sets it up for almost all other editing software but not Final Cut.
If you dumped your BPAV folders on the cards, then use Calibrated Software for using in Final Cut Pro at https://www.calibratedsoftware.com/MP4EXImport_Mac.asp and it will cost you, but test it first to see if it works properly. It’ll have a watermark on it until you buy it. XDCam Transfer is free, but you may not be able to use that anymore if you discarded the BPAV folders. All those crazy folders have necessary items in them.
Greg Ondera
http://www.Plexus.tv
http://www.SurgeonToday.org