Frank Thomas
Forum Replies Created
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If you really prefer to use the existing shadows, you might look into Key Correct from Red Giant. Its Deartifacter tool can work wonders when it comes to cleaning up DV artifacts. Key Correct also has a Denoiser tool, which might help. You might also find its Smooth Screen tool of some use.
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[Dave LaRonde] “Running AE without an installation disk is like unsafe sex.”
The first one I’d never do, and the second I’m too old to do. LOL.
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The only thing I’d consider adding to your arsenal is Key Correct from Red Giant Software. Key Correct can be a real time (and life) saver when dealing with poor greenscreen footage. It can even help to get a pretty decent key from DV footage (which, we all know, is not easy).
I’ve gotta agree with Ron, about Ultra virtual sets being cheesy. I played with Ultra just before Adobe bought it, and haven’t bothered with it since. I’d rather put in the time to create my own (slightly less cheesy, LOL) CG environments. Of course, there may sometimes be projects that are well suited to cheesiness (is that a word?). If (or, should I say, when) one of those comes my way, I might possibly consider Ultra for the job.
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What format are you exporting from Photoshop? Does the format support transparency (alpha channels)?
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How did you make the window? I just tried what you are attempting and it worked fine. On your wall layer, use a mask set to subtract, as your window.
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[Amit Zinman] “And then I guess everyone will ridicule the next MS OS.”
From what I hear, the next MS OS will be a modular system. You buy a basic OS, with no bells and whistles. All the resource-hogging extras will be available as individual add-on modules.
If that’s true, it might just be the best MS OS to use for this sort of work.
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Are your headphones connected to the mixer, or the computer?
If headphones are connected to the computer, and the audio still pans correctly (in the phones), the problem couldn’t be with the mixer. At the very least, this would be a way to find out whether or not you are actually getting a stereo signal into the computer.
How sure are you of the integrity of your firewire cable? Have you tried a different cable? I’ve found in the past, that firewire and USB cables can have problems that are not easily detected.
Have you tried connecting the mixer to a different computer, to see if the problem still exists?
If you try some of the things I’ve suggested, you might narrow things down by a process of elimination.
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I didn’t see anything that I’d describe as light streaks. Are you sure you weren’t just trying to make us watch your favorite music clips?
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You might try splitting your layer (split it into two layers) at the point where you want the effect to start. Then apply the effect to only that layer.
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I wouldn’t recommend anything other than full quality for archived footage.
You never know when you’ll need to use some of that footage again, and the better the quality, the better the results (particularly if additional effects/compositing is required).
Remember, once you’ve thrown away some of the quality (which, in digital video, means data), you can’t get it back.
Large capacity hard drives are cheap, these days, so archiving large files shouldn’t really be that much of an issue.