Frank Nolan
Forum Replies Created
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I am not that familiar with the PAL version of the HVX but from what I understand you have a choice in shooting 720p, some of which are; 720/50p: 720/25p or 72025PN. When you use the 25p mode it is actually recording each frame twice and laying down 50 progressive frames. The reason behind this is the EBU has chosen 720/50p as their preferred broadcast format. If you want to achieve the maximum recording time on the P2 cards in 720, then youo need to select 720/25PN mode as this will only record 25 distinct frames per second instead of the duplicate method used in 25P.
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That doesn’t sound like anything to do with phantom power. You only have to view the waveform in a sound program to see that it is a distorted clipped signal from over-modulation somewhere in the signal path. If your levels on the camera “looked” in range then it was probably distorting at the input to the mixer or you were sending the incorrect level output from the mixer for the chosen camera settings. You may me able to lessen that with various EQ and noise removal techniques but it will always be distorted. It’s kind of like blown out highlights with video. You can darken them a little in post but you can never really get the information back.
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If the Avid isn’t equipped to handle the DVCPro HD MXF files, then you cant deliver them on a hard drive. They may need to upgrade the system or you will have to have the files downconverted to an SD format at a post house, that their avid will handle.
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Well you didn’t specify what format of SD the Avid will require. Beta SP, Digibeta, MiniDV?????? IF it’s just a mini dv tape they require, the simple and most efficient way would be to shoot HD to P2 cards and then dub them to mini dv tape in camera prior to re-formatting the cards. If it’s Digibeta or Beta SP, then you would have to load the footage into an FCP timeline and output to tape using a capture card or I/O from AJA or Black Magic card.
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Your G5 will be fine. I can edit DVCPro HD footage from this camera on my G4 laptop. As Shane said just make sure you get some good drives and RAM. You will also need to upgrade your FCP to ver. 5.0.4 or later, preferably 5.1.4, to handle the P2 import.
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[msacci] “Yeah, this is pretty confusing, is this true only in the HD world. In SD 29.97 and 23.98 are in fact always DF?”
No! In SD 29.97 can be either DF or NDF. 23.98 is NDF.
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[ken hon] “DF time code drops a couple of frames per minute to slow the video clock back down and make video time equal to real time.”
This is another reason people get confused on this issue. DF timecode DOES NOT DROP FRAMES!
It just drops the count of the frames. This is a very simplified explanation. Look at these two counts and you will see what I mean.
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9.
1,2,3,4,5,7,8,9,10.
There are still 9 frames in each of these counts, however you will notice that the number 6 is not in the second count. That is kind of how drop frame timecode works. It just skips numbers in the counting process. It doesn’t skip or drop frames. Maybe it’s the name that really confuses people. -
[PaulD] “Here’s a quote from a colleague:
“I’ll say it all again, 23.98 MUST be DF or the TC doesn’t agree with real time, and since the only reason for ever shooting 23.98 is to get a 2:3 or 2:3:3:2 pulldown to 59.94, the TC MUST be DF or the 59.94 is wrong. There’s no way round this, it’s a fact of life.””I am afraid your colleague is VERY WRONG on this point. In a 60hz camera such as the HVX200, the 24p modes (23.98) timecode is ALWAYS NDF there is no way to set it to DF. Regardless of what it may have been previously set to, when switched to 24p mode it will automatically record NDF timecode.
A lot of people seem to be of the understanding that because a frame rate is not a whole number, eg. 23.98, 29.97, 59.94, that it is DF timecode but that is not the case. For instance with 29.97, you could have NDF or DF timcode. -
Better still, use the 4 sub outs.
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[editor4yourfilm] “Why is it then that the movement in the HVX clips don’t look nearly as “smooth” as the Varicam footage? There is a slight “stuttering” in the movement in the clips from the smaller camera. Is this normal for footage from the HVX? And is there something I can do to make motion appear smoother?
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This could be due to a number of factors. The first being, did you extract the 24 frames from the 60 that were recorded? In 720/24p the HVX200 actaully shoots 60fps using a 2:3 pulldown.
Another factor is what was the shutter speed on the HVX set at?