Frank Nolan
Forum Replies Created
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For some reason this wouldn’t post and all of a sudden it’s posting multiples.
Sorry about that! -
[pballon] “They edited it as if it were a normal DV movie. “
OUCH!!
Chances are it was edited at 29.97df if it was imported as normal DV footage, so that will make it even more difficult to deal with.
Do you have .flx files from the lab? -
What version of FCP are you using and what version was the project last saved in?
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Compressor is your best bet as you need to encode an mpeg2 file to burn to DVD. You can do that prior to the viewing and give that copy to your client. However if after the viewing the client wants changes to the cut and you do them on the spot, then the only way to give her an updated copy within 20 minutes is to lay off to tape or, as suggested, to a set top DVD recorder. The encoding and burning process for a 10 minute uncompressed sequence will be a couple of hours at best on a laptop.
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Check through this tutorial as there are a few “warnings and Gotcha’s” at the end regarding audio tracks.
https://www.lafcpug.org/Tutorials/basic_fcp5_to_4.html
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[Brett Sherman] “I commonly digitize 20 hours or more of material to work with. If I have to render that to DV50 that’s a huge issue.”
If you capture it as DV50 to start with then there is no need to render, it will drop right into the timeline along with your other DV50 footage.
The only time you need to render is if you capture the footage at a different codec to the timeline you are working in, so if you plan accordingly you will be fine. -
I would use the blackburst to feed the Beta, AJA, DSR 80, Da-98, midi timepiece AV and digital Timepiece. Then take the word clock from the digital timepiece to the d8b, 2408, DA-98, Adat etc. That way the blackburst is the master sync.
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A cable that has been unplugged 50 times! How can you say it hasn’t been moved that much? If it has worked fine for 4 years then I’d say it wasn’t bad from the start. Cables fail for all different reasons. One of the primary causes is from placing gear or chair legs etc. on the cable, another is unplugging the cable alot. You can test a cable with an ohm meter. Check to see you have continuity between each of the pins respectively and then if that is ok, check to see if there’s any continuity between say pin one and pin 2 or 1 & 3 or 2 & 3. If there is then you have crossed wires somewhere in the cable. Also try to avoid buying cables with molded connectors, as it is hard to trouble shoot these. If you cant unscrew the connector it’s impossible to see if it’s a simple case of the solder being broken.