Doug Graham
Forum Replies Created
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“Normalize” can be tricky. What it does is bring the audio uniformly up, until the loudest sound in the clip is at 0dB.
If there is any audio in the clip that’s ALREADY at 0dB, Normalize won’t do a thing to it. The loud part can be very brief…a single pop or clang.
Also, Normalize won’t do anything to reduce the background noise problem. For that, you’ll have to try a noise reduction plugin.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
1. Use the Magic Wand tool to select all the white areas. (set the tolerance level higher or lower to get all of the white, but nothing of the parts you want to keep).
2. Use Select/Invert Selection.
3. CTRL+C to copy the selection.
4. Open a new image with a transparent background.
5. CTRL+V to paste the data into the new image.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
Jeff,
Editing HDV requires a husky computer, for sure. If price is no object, look into dual core dual processor systems. However, you can build a very respectable system with a single dual core processor.
I recommend building the system around an Intel Core2 Duo processor, or an Athlon 64 fx dual core 4800+ or better. Use a motherboard designed for the processor, of course. Use 2GB or more of RAM, and follow your motherboard manufacturer’s recommendation on RAM brands and models. The RAM makers’ sites also have good info on compatibility; I like Samsug or Crucial. You can save a bit on the video display card…try getting an NVIDIA GeForce or ATI Radeon card, one or two models down from whatever the current top of the line is. I like the new PCI-E models. Get a good SATA or IDE system drive, and build a RAID 0 array from several identical drives for your video data storage. I have a 1.2TB array made of four 300 GB SATA drives; my motherboard has an onboard RAID controller and ports for them all. Make sure your power supply is man enough for the job…450 watts or better. I like the Seasonic models; they’re quiet and deliver clean reliable power. Get a good cooler for your processor.
Don’t install games, or anything else you don’t need for video editing on the computer. Don’t hook up to the internet, or a network. Or, if you must, set up a dual-boot system with one configuration optimized for best performance. Videoguys, https://www.videoguys.com, has some good suggestions for “tweaking” your PC.
If you’re intimidated by the idea of getting all these components to work together, or tweaking your computer’s registry and services for best performance, consider using a systems integrator. Find someone who has experience building computers for video editing. You won’t pay much more than for the individual components, and you’ll save a lot of time and agravation.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
I’m not sure you can do it…there’s going to be some lag between what’s on the screen and the audio being recorded.
But does it matter? As long as the talent is in sync with what she sees on the screen, you can always slip the recorded audio clip to sync to the video afterwards.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
If y’all haven’t seen the Von Lankens’ presentations (either live or on DVD), you should make this a “Must Attend” item on your calendars.
Mark and Trisha are great!
Regards,
Doug Graham -
No, you have a lot more control over the settings by rendering the MPEG2 file from Vegas, rather than importing an .avi and letting DVDA do the render.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
Jason,
I second Tom’s advice. There are tons of event videographers in Southern California, and many of them need a good second shooter, either occasionally or on a regular basis.
They know that many of these shooters, like you, aspire to become their competitors…but they hire and pay them anyway, because they are nice people, because they need the help, and because they know that someday you’ll refer a potential client to them when you’re already booked on that date.
First, take a look at your Yellow Pages directory, and start calling the event shooters you’ll find under “Video Services”. There are some under “Photographers”, too.
Next, see if there is a local videographers’ association in your area. Both WEVA and the 4EVER Group may be of help in getting in touch with a local group.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
In addition to what the others are saying…
The problem might be your capture card. The Canopus ADVC series are “digitizing” cards, designed to accept analog video input and create DV digital video files therefrom.
If your footage is DV to start with, try using a different 1394 Firewire input port on your computer and see if Vegas will then recognize your camcorder.
If your footage is analog, try using the capture application provided by Canopus, and then see if you can import the DV media clips into Vegas.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
The XLH1 is really the only thing in that particular price range ($10K).
From lowest to highest, and excluding consumer HDV models:
Sony A1U – around $2.5K. Small handycam, 1080i, single CMOS image sensor. Great for situations when you need a small, inconspicuous camera.
Sony Z1U – around $4.5K. 1080i, fixed lens. If there’s an “industry standard” in HDV, this is it. Shortcomings most often mentioned are mediocre low light ability (all HDV cams suffer from this, compared to DV camcorders), and lack of a true 24 fps shooting mode.
JVC HD110U – around $6K, plus accessories to bring it to around $7-8K. 720p, interchangeable lens. JVC’s first model, the 100U, has suffered from some bugs; some say they’re simply quality control things that’ll get worked out as JVC gets more experience making the camera, while the Sony fans claim they are innate design flaws. Then there’s the format war between 1080i and 720p, with vocal supporters on both sides of the issue.
Canon XLH1 – around $10K. Interchangeable lens. Both interlaced and progressive modes. About the only downside, according to the reviews, is its high price in relation to other HDV cameras.
Then there’s the whole issue of whether you want HDV, or some other more expensive flavor of HD, such as the Panasonic HVX-200 and its P2 solid state memory cards in HDCAM, or the Sony XDCAM.
Regards,
Doug Graham -
I’d consider a helmet cam for the POV shot. The rider’s body will provide a little shock absorption. However, bicycles have a very harsh ride; the footage is likely to be pretty shaky no matter what you do.
I recommend a chase car or motorcycle. I tried documenting a ride for my son’s Scout troop from a bike. It was WAY too hard to try to keep up with a bunch of teenage competitive riders, let alone get out in front to try to get a shot of more than their backsides.
Regards,
Doug Graham