Don Greening
Forum Replies Created
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I have footage from my GL2 on a tripod shot with IS engaged and I’ve never experienced jittery footage in the way you’ve described. Image stabilization will try to correct the beginning and end of a pan or tilt, so you’ll see a bit of a jump in your footage, but not like you’re describing. Check your shutter speed. If it was set to less than 60 then you’re going to see motion jitter in the way you’ve described. But it won’t be because the IS was on, at least not on my GL2.
– Don
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When I was a boy scout I used to love brownies.
– Don
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Perhaps you can just try booting from the OS install disk and once you’re up and running check to see if that file you want to get rid of is still in the trash bin. Then hit command/shift/delete and see if the trash gets emptied. Since it’s no longer in use by the startup disk it should go bye bye.
– Don
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Can’t you just start up using the system install disk(s) or something else that has an OS on it, like DiskWarroir and then empty the trash? It sounds like whatever you’re trying to delete is in use by your startup disk, so it would follow that you NOT make it in use by the startup disk.
– Don
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Because of the wide variety of good filters available in the popular NLE’s these days, my recommendation would be to shoot clean and apply your filters in post. If you shoot with a filter and don’t like the result, well……you can’t uncook an egg. The exceptions to this would be to shoot with a lightweight UV filter/protector which you should use all the time or a good circ. polarizer to reject unwanted reflections from glass or water.
– Don
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Assuming that you’re trying to access the menu/submenus properly and it’s still not working for you, try pulling out the memory battery on the camera bottom and then re-insert it. This will make the XL1S return to its default settings and may possibly fix the menu access problems. BTW, you’ll have to set the date and time again. If that doesn’t work there’s probably something wrong with the camera. Remember, some menu functions can’t be accessed unless you’re in record mode AND in full manual mode. For example, in easy recording mode there will be many menu items you can’t access because the camera is supposed to be doing everything for you. Conversely, some menu functions can only be accessed in VTR mode. It’s all in the manual.
In order to get your boom audio into both L & R channels you need to connect to both RCA inputs using a splitter. You can buy an XLR to mono RCA adapter from places like Radio Shack if this is what you need to connect to the end of your boom mic. Then buy a “Y” RCA adapter to go from mono RCA to two male mono RCA connections you plug into the camera. Have a look at the connection on the end of your mic and choose the appropriate adapter for your particular application.
– Don
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Oh Dear. Well, I suspect that you’ll have to capture it in its native 16:9 aspect ratio using the DV NTSC Anamorphic preset, otherwise it’ll come in squeezed and not looking right. Drag the clips into a DV NTSC Anamorphic sequence, then crop both sides to 720×480. Create a new standard NTSC 48Khz sequence and copy/paste the footage from the Anamorphic sequence into the 4:3 sequence. The result will not fill the 4:3 frame, so now you’ll have to expand/zoom the footage to fill that frame.
You could do the same to the original source clips in the viewer but if it was me I’d leave the source clips alone just in case I didn’t get it right the first time. There’s going to be a lot of rendering involved here. You’re also taking a resolution hit twice because of the electronic 16:9 interpolation from the camera, plus you’ll lose more res when you expand the cropped footage to fill the 4:3 frame.
Not the best way to correct the aspect ration problem but it might not turn out too bad. All you can do is try. Let’s hope your subject matter was always centred in your frame during the shoot. Look at the result on an NTSC monitor and see if it’s going to look okay.
This may or may not be the best/easiest way to correct things for you, but I’d give it a go. If anyone else has a better idea let them speak now 🙂
Hope this helps.
– Don
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That happened to me once. After a 16:9 project I changed the capture prefs back to DV NTSC and it still captured in 16:9. Trashing FCP the preference files cured the problem. I think sometimes FCP has a one track mind (pun intentional) and needs occasional shock therapy.
– Don
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Rita,
If you’re exporting to Compressor directly from FCP, that method is generally considered to be the most unreliable way of encoding prior to creating your DVD. The fact that you’ve always done it this way in the past doesn’t mean that you’ll continue to have good luck with this particular workflow.
May I recommend a more reliable way: export your QT movie from FCP as self-contained, video only. Export your audio separately using the ‘export audio to .aif’ command. Open the Compressor app. and use any of the presets available, just like you did when exporting from within FCP. Convert your .aif audio to AC3 audio using A.Pack and then you can bring all of these elements into DVDSP. I’m assuming you have the first version of Compressor. If you use Compressor 2 then you can convert your .aif audio from within the new version.
The above method has worked for me for quite some time now with not one audio sync issue. Another advantage of this method is that you can still use FCP while Compressor works in the background. Using AC3 file format audio will also prove to be more DVD player ‘friendly’, as the high bit rates of .aif audio tend to make some players choke.
As always, it’s up to you whether or not you choose to export your QT movie as self-contained or as a reference movie. Hard drive space limitations will be your guide in that respect.
Hope this helps.
– Don
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[Kevin C.] “Fast forward/rewind as good in emergencies as tape cleaner?”
In most instances, yes. Unless it’s something that has glued itself to some part of the tape transport, then you need to take it in for a good cleaning. I wouldn’t want to quote you a price for cleaning because you live down there and I live up here, so the prices would be quite different.
When it’s time for a cleaning just take it to an authorized Canon repair facility in your area. I’m sure there’s a ton of them in and around LA.
Also keep in mind that if you do get a tape dropout it might not be the camerra’s fault. From what I’ve been able to learn about MiniDV tapes, they’re all made the same way. It’s during the quality control inspections that the manufacturer discovers that some tapes have dropouts on them so they sell those at a cheaper price. The ones with the fewest dropouts get packaged and sold as premium tapes at a higher price.
I could be wrong about this but this seems to be the popular belief.
– Don